TravelStream™ news feed for member chriskate on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/chriskate en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Wed, 24 Jun 2009 03:21:10 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/chriskate/1/1245827866/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/chriskate/1/1245827866/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/chriskate/1/1245827866/tpod.html Wed, 24 Jun 2009 03:21:10 -0400 From Ecuador to Tanzania

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Stone Town, Zanzibar Archipelago, Tanzania

We arrived in Lushoto after a long and windy bus journey from the coast. We were tipped off that Irente Farm do good value accommodation so we jumped in a cab and headed straight there having called them to check availability on the way. The farm's about 6km out of town on a lush wooded hillside and we were made very welcome by the manager on arrival. We also found out that the farm produces rye bread, cheese, butter, passion fruit juice and jams and were pleased to hear that these make up the included breakfast! Yum!

The farm is near a lookout called Irente viewpoint which affords amazing views across the Maasai steppe, we headed there for sunset one evening – stunning! We also took a guided walk to nearby rainforests, it’s surreal to think that we were in the same country, it was so…. green!

While we were at the farm, a friend of the owners came to visit for a few days with his family. They invited us to join them on a trip they’d planned to another patch of forest (we were the only other guests). The drive took two hours on windy dirt roads and allowed us to see much of the mountain range; it’s a really beautiful area. We also stopped at a farm owned by Benedictine Monks on the way who produce their own wine, not great but certainly palatable!

After Lushoto we took our last long bus journey down to Dar es Salaam in order to catch the ferry over to Zanzibar!! We arrived late in Dar so had to spend the night and we met up with a friend from Arusha, Jo, who also wanted to visit the island.

Early the following morning we caught the first ferry to Zanzibar and, after a minor issue with our visas at Stone Town port (long story), we were met by a friend of a friend of a friend who’s apartment we’d arranged to stay at (another long story!). This friend of a friend happens to be one of the most renowned hoteliers in Stone Town and we were taken to a building he’s currently renovating to create his latest hotel. Just two rooms are complete and we were able to stay in one of them - a very elaborate room decked out like some thing from Arabian Nights! When it’s completed these rooms will go for around $200 a night…and we were lucky enough to stay for free (we think we were confused with someone else, as this definitely wasn’t the apartment we had originally arranged to stay at!)!

After the shock of our accommodation luck sunk in, we hit the narrow streets of Stone Town. It’s an amazing place, catching wonderful smells of spices as we walked the lanes we couldn’t help but instantly love it! It has a great combination of African and Arabian culture thrown together amongst the fading grandeur of what must have been an incredible town in its height. After a little browsing in the shops, we quickly found somewhere for a beer to watch the sun go down! Every evening in Stone Town, there’s a food market hawking barbequed seafood from lobster and prawns to octopus and blue marlin. We couldn’t resist and a dove on in!

The following day we struck out North to the sleepy costal resort of Kendwa. White sandy beaches, turquoise waters, bamboo huts… Kendwa’s a little slice of paradise and all three of us were perfectly happy sunbathing and relaxing! We decided to do a short snorkelling trip and were amazed how clear the waters were, just a few hundred meters from the beach we were surrounded by brightly coloured fish darting around a beautiful coral garden. Most impressively we saw two lion fish – really elegant creatures.

After a couple of days on the beach it was back to Stone Town as Jo had to head back to the mainland. This time, we were shown to the right apartment which although not quite as flamboyant as the hotel is really beautiful. We saw Jo off at the port and then the owner of the apartment’s private chef cooked us some dinner which we ate on the roof top… an amazing feast of kingfish, saffron rice and fresh veg – mango and papaya for dessert, followed by handfuls of fresh jasmine flowers to help us sleep!

So this just leaves us with one more morning in Stone Town, wondering round the market and drinking fresh coffee, and then it’s back to Dar es Salaam for one night before our flight the following morning back to the UK and the end of our four month adventure. It’s been an amazing trip and we can’t believe it’s come to an end…and we fully plan on boring you all about it on our return.
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Pangani, Tanzania

After around six hours on a cramped daladala, we were relieved to arrive at the bus stop in the sleepy costal town of Pangani. For the first time on our trip in Tanzania, we weren't greeted by a hoard of tour guides and taxi drivers. This came as a welcome change at first but as the bus pulled away, we were left stranded with our heavy bags knowing the hostel we had in mind was too far to walk…. An ambitious young local did come over and begin to undo the string on the rack of his rickety looking pedal bike but we refused his kind, albeit slightly crazy offer to give us both, and our bags, a lift! Fortunately we noticed that the tourist office was just over the road and after wondering around the office for a few moments we found one of the guides who was able to find us the only 'taxi’ in town and took us to our hostel.

We met another tourist from England and a couple of guys, one English and one South African, who were working on building a new ferry, on our first evening. We chatted to them for a while and they invited us to join them for a couple of trips on their boat so we jumped at the chance. The first trip was up the river in search of crocodiles, which sadly remained elusive, but took us through some stunning scenery. The river is lined with hundreds of palm trees and was incredibly serene in the dwindling light of the day. We also stopped at a local fishing community and brought a crab to cook up for dinner!

The second trip, which was billed as a day of sunbathing, snorkelling and fishing for tuna, sounded amazing…. We struck out for a tiny sand bank island at low tide as it gets completely submerged at high tide. One of the lads is a big surfer and spotted some breakers on the other side of the island, so he dropped us off and headed with the local boat driver to see if the surf was any good. After about an hour we received a phone call that the local driver had let salt water into the engine and they were now stranded! Fortunately there was another group of tourists on the island and they were able to rescue them and give us a lift back – and that was that, no snorkelling and no fishing!

The nearest big town to Pangani is Tanga and, as we needed to get some supplies we decided to head there for the day and check out some local caves while we were there. Amboni caves are very beautiful, formed from limestone and have a number of local tales and superstitions linked to them!

About 80km south of Pangani is Sadaani National Park, the only park in Tanzania to incorporate the coast line. We decided to visit the park and stay in the reserve for one night. The park itself is beautiful and the guest house, although basic is situated metres from the Indian Ocean. We went on some game drives and although Sadaani’s not as packed full of animals as Ngorongoro we did see giraffe, eland, waterbuck, reedbuck, baboons, buffalo and hippos. Our guide also suggested a trip up the river to see hippos, crocodiles and birds. When we arrived at the pier to see the boat captain, we were told that he’d lent his outboard motor to someone who’d gone to Zanzibar! Our guide then left on a quest to find another engine but returned empty handed. The captain, eager to please, suggested that we could do a shorter trip just paddling the boat up the river so we all loaded onto his boat and set off. Less than 400 metres up the river it’s pretty clear that the wind and current weren’t playing ball and the mission was aborted! Still we did get to see hippos scarily close up!

We’d been told of a reasonably priced beach resort close to Pangani and decided to check it out for a couple of nights before heading back inland to the mountains. Peponi beach resort is lovely (Peponi means paradise in Swahili!) and we rented a tent pitched under a bamboo shelter. The resort has its own dhow and run daily snorkelling trips which we took one day and although we got rained on as the boat left the resort, the weather soon cleared up and we had a great day snorkelling around the reefs and then relaxing on another sand-island. That night we shared an enormous sea-food platter and a cheeky glass of vino or two as we realised it was exactly one year till we tie the knot!

So what’s next? Lushoto is in our sights, a mountain town surrounded by thick rainforest, a real change from the parts of Tanzania we’ve seen so far!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/chriskate/1/1244952000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/chriskate/1/1244952000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/chriskate/1/1244952000/tpod.html Sun, 14 Jun 2009 07:06:31 -0400 From Ecuador to Tanzania

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Arusha, Arusha, Tanzania

We spent a lovely weekend in Nairobi, staying with friends of mum and dads at their wonderful house, full of African artefacts – hot showers, lovely surroundings and an endless supply of gin and tonic – bliss!

So, our last week in Longido had arrived. Due to the worsening drought (the annual rains never arrived and it's shaping up to be a long tough year before there’s a chance of any further rains), the Maasai men have had to leave their bomas and travel long distances in order to find grazing lands for their cattle. Some have travelled up to 200km to find green grass! Consequently our digging team began to dwindle in numbers as time went on, as more and more of the men working with us had to leave with their cattle. However this was a situation out of anyone’s control and despite this the project progressed a long way and it’s now so tantalisingly close to being completed. The frustrating, and ironic thing was that we had been making such good progress; if the drought hadn’t worsened we would have completed the project. However we left them with enough pipeline to finish the project and the chairman reassured us that they were trying to organise it so that not all the men left with the cattle and there were enough remaining to complete the pipeline, the need for which was increasing by the day.

Our last day in Longido turned out to be a pretty emotional one. We went to say goodbye to the Maasai we’d been working with and were greeted by a crowd of men and women who all wanted to say goodbye. They presented us with gifts of Maasai jewellery to say thank you and we both felt overwhelmed by their kindness. The chairmen, who didn’t really speak any English, wrote us a message in Swahili, which on getting it translated turned out to be a really beautiful message of thanks and a promise that they would finish the project. Me being a big girl got all choked up!

That night we were invited for dinner at a locals houses in Longido, who had been a big support for us during our time there, where he also made a really beautiful speech thanking us, and another friend, who was our Maasai contact in Longido, and who had helped set up the project, presented us with more gifts of Maasai jewellery to say thank you. If that wasn’t enough, the owner of the guesthouse where we’d been living for the last month made a really beautiful speech about how important the project was and gave us more gifts of Maasai earrings and Chris an ornate fly-swat(!) to say thank you. So all in all it was pretty emotional. The next day we hitch-hiked a lift back to arusha on a bus full of locals heading to a wedding, so our last journey out of Longido was accompanied by loud singing and prayers.

So with the Longido part of our trip over, that left us with a month of travelling before returning home.

We spent a couple of days in Arusha, saying goodbye to our friends there, and a disturbing day visiting the local snake park where we unfortunately coincided our trip with feeding time – those chicks didn’t stand a chance! Not helped by the newspaper cuttings everywhere about snakes eating humans – nice!

We then went to Moshi for a couple of days where we relaxed and enjoyed the views of Kilimanjaro. After which we moved on to Same (pronounced Sah-may) as we wanted to visit the Mkomazi Nature Reserve for the day. This was a strange old day - the park is very beautiful and wild and barren, but very large and dry so we didn’t see much in the way of wild life. We wanted to visit a Rhino Sanctuary, but the owner wasn’t around so we couldn’t enter the protected area, however they also had a wild dog breeding program which was very interesting. We finished the day with a big bowl of Nyama Choma (roast goat meat), in a local bar – yum yum. We’re on a mission to eat Nyama Choma in every place we visit – it’s a tough old life.

Next stop, the coast!

P.S. Phots will follow as soon as we find an internet connection that doesn't send us to sleep!
xx
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Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania

It's been a while since we've blogged; mainly due to the difficulties we've had finding a reliable internet connection in Tanzania! But you'll all be glad to hear we've had a busy couple of weeks and want to fill you in with all the details.... I'll try and keep it brief I promise!

So, the pipe line project is going well, although we've not been able to work on a couple of days as the Maasai have had various meetings about strategic cattle grazing and the like, as well as being too busy to dig one day because they had a lion to kill who had been terrorising the local bomas!

Last week, the Maasai invited us to join them for lunch... they took us to a clearing near their bomas, sat us down, brought over a freshly roasted goat's leg on a skewer and proceeded to cut us chunks to eat! All washed down with some beans and ugali. A really surreal experience and we feel very privileged to be this close to a Maasai community.

The following weekend we returned to Arusha to be picked up for a safari to the Ngorongoro crater. We were collected at 8.30 from our hostel and driven for a couple of hours to Lake Manyara National Park for our first day. Within minutes of entering the park we were greeted by an elephant meters from the road so we stopped to take pictures. While we were admiring the elephant, a troop of over 100 baboons casually walked past our truck, we were both amazed how close we were to these animals! Driving further into the park we saw impalas, giraffe, zebra, buffalo, bush pigs, warthogs, vervet monkeys. We then stopped at a pool where loads of hippos wallow in the mud to keep themselves cool and protected from the sun. Our journey continued past families of elephant, wildebeest, more zebra, more monkeys, a host of birds and even lions in the distance! Around four we left the shores of Lake Manyara to head to our campsite on the rim of the Ngorongoro crater.

Our campsite at the crater was amazing but very cold due to the altitude and the cloud that seems to permanently cling to the crater edge. During the night we were woken by a strange noise we both thought sounded a little like people packing tents - we both stuck our heads out of the tent but in the misty early morning light all we saw was huge dark shapes... our guide told us in the morning that it was in fact a herd of buffalo grazing through the campsite!

At six in the morning we headed down in the truck to the crater floor, it's an amazing and surreal expanse. Immediately we saw creatures dotted around the plain - elephants, wildebeest, zebra but our attention was soon grabbed by two cheetahs stalking right past the truck, they're really elegant and beautiful animals and we were very lucky to see them so close up! The drive then continued past the vast soda lake in the centre of the crater, inhabited at this time of year by thousands of flamingo. Continuing on, we drove past a huge herd of zebra and saw a couple of groups of female lions and a solitary male, very impressive. We also passed more elephant and were lucky enough to see the rare black rhino!

After lunch we left the crater, heading towards Lake Eyasi for our next camp. That evening we were taken to the shore of the lake to watch the sunset, it's a barren and beautiful soda lake. The following morning our guide drives us to visit a tribe of bushmen who are one of the last tribes in Tanzania to have virtually no western influences. We visited them to see the way they live, hunting with bows and arrows every day to find food to eat. When we first arrived the men and women were sat on opposing side of their camp, the men smoking marijuana which they believe allows them to be active and hunt all day long.... Quickly we were lead off by a group of the younger men to watch while they hunted for food, shooting several small birds with their homemade bows and arrows. Although it felt a little barbaric, we couldn't help but be impressed by their skill and they hunt for survival, not for sport. When we returned to the camp they tried to teach us how to shoot, it's safe to say we both need practice! They also performed a mesmerising dance with singing for us.

This week, after returning from safari, we were invited to watch a Maasai circumcision ceremony... thankfully the deed itself is done before the ceremony but we were able to see how the Maasai celebrate: the women in their ceremonial dress and jewellery while the young warriors perform their chanting and jumping. It's another amazing thing to see and we're lucky to see it happening outside of a performance staged for tourists!

Well, I think that's about it for now.... Phew!

Apologies in advance for the mammoth amount of pics and vids!


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Longido, Tanzania

After an 8.30 hour flight from Miami to Heathrow, followed by a 9.40 hour flight from Heathrow to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania and then a 5 hour wait in the airport and a 1 hour internal flight we finally arrived in Arusha-phew!
We were met at the airport by the project coordinator how looked after us brilliantly, having booked us into a hotel, took us out for dinner, showed us round the town and then travelled with us up to Longido which is the village where we'll be based for the next month. Longido is about 2 hours north of Arusha on the road up to Kenya and is a really beautiful Maasai village. With one road through the middle, the rest of the village is dirt tracks and small buildings, with traditional Maasai settlements called Bomas on the outskirts, and everywhere are men, women and children in the traditional Maasai dress and jewellery - feels like a pretty amazing place to be spending the next month!
We spent the first night in the 'luxury' tents that are up above the village and house various volunteers and sometimes tourists. The most amazing view across the huge planes with Mount Meru and Killimajaro in the distance. The next couple of weeks however we'll be staying down in a guesthouse in the village which is a nice way of getting to know more of the locals.
We're working about 20mins further up the road near a selection of Maasai Bomas called Kimokowa, and were shown the line that the water pipeline is going to take, bringing clean water to the Bomas and a small Maasai school. They previously had a couple of water holes which they had dug out, but children kept falling in them and drowning and the water was filthy. Infact an old lady fell in one of the water holes this week and drowned - very sad.
About 3 km of the pipeline has already been laid and we're hoping to take the pipeline at least up to the school during our time here.
Each day we walk for about 15mins from the road to the area we're digging and are joined by the local maasai who help with the digging - is a great fun atmosphere, the women and children even get involved sometimes. They bring us chai to drink everyday and we were even invited into their boma one day to drink with them.
It feels a real privaledge to be working alongside the locals and to be made so welcome and it's clear how important it is for them to have the project completed so there's a real sense of purpose.
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Miami, Florida, United States

It's safe to say that Miami is a crazy place! We left Ecuador on 23rd April and as we had to fly through Miami we decided to stop over for a couple of days. We stayed in South Beach which is probably the nicest area of Miami, but was a bit of a shock to the system as is all so in-your-face, loud, brash and between you and me, a little bit trashy!
Fortunately though we had hired a car for a couple of days so were able to explore outside of the city.
We spent a day driving down the Florida Keys to Key West, which are a string of islands off the southern tip of Florida, connected by a road - all very chilled out and Carribean-like. On the way stopped at......trumpet fan fare please......THEATRE OF THE SEA!!!! Sounds very overdramatic, but was actually brilliant - dolphin, sea lion and parrot shows - and was all very impressive. Did you know that parrots have an IQ equivalent to a toddler (and Chris of course).
Key West , which is the final island/town on the Keys, was bonkers. We happened to be there on the day of their 'independence' celebrations (at some point they were annexed from the US due to naughty behaviour and formed the Conch State). This involved all the boats out in the harbour sailing in circles throwing food at each other and airplanes and helicopters dropping toilet paper 'bombs' on the boats from above. Bonkers.
We also spent a day in the Everglades where we hired bikes and explored the dry bits. All very beautiful and very surreal cycling along spotting wild alligators chilling out in the water ways next to the path!
After some minor confusion and a bit of mild panic we managed to turn up at the airport on the right day and left Miami bound for the next part of out adventure, via Heathrow, to Tanzania....
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tarapoa, Ecuador

We've just returned from the Amazon and have had a fantastic time - what a wild, crazy place. We stayed in a place called Samona Lodge which is on the Rio Cuyabeno river in the Cuyabeno nature reserve in the north Oriente, up near the Columbian border. The lodge was pretty basic, but very comfortable, perfect for people travelling on a budget and very atmospheric with lots of candles at night as they only have electricity in the kitchen. Our guide was briliiant and had hawk like vision - we saw lots of differnt types of monkey, sloth, caimen, anacondas, dolphins, pyhranas, more bugs, beatles and spiders than I've every seen before and loads of birds. You can't touch anything with out an ant the size of a babies head crawling over you! We did lots of hikes through the jungle, both day and night, and took dug out canoes down the river. We went Caimen spotting at night - you can see their red eyes glowing in the torch light, and went pyrhana fishing - they have some serious teeth on them!! We had an indiginous woman in our canoe (the grandmother of the guide) who was catching them with strands of her own hair, with just a bit of meat tied on one end...she put us all to shame! We also went swimming in the river...eek! I wasn't so keen on the idea of that given all the evilness that lives in the waters, but everyone else was doing it so foolish pride made me feel like I had to get involved...I survived the experience though all limbs intact...just!! ;-)
We're now back in Quito for the day before our flight out to Miami tomorrow am, leaving Ecuador for good...
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Otavalo, Ecuador

I can't believe we've come to the end of our time working at La Hesperia. The past 5 weeks have just flown by!! Last weekend a group of us went to Otavalo for a couple of days to visit the craft markets there - a good spot for picking up some souvenirs. There's a really big indigenous population there, and apparently is the only place in Ecuador to have an indigenous Mayor. We also visited a bird rescue centre and got to see the impressive Andean Condor up close...that is one big bird!! The highlight of the weekend though has to be the impressive pies! Apparently Otavalo's famous for them...and we were not disappointed...we go all the way to Ecuador and end up spending our time writing home about pies!! ;-)
On our final walk down the hill from La Hesperia to the road we managed to get our first monkey sighting, which was very exciting-they were about 100m away playing in the trees! It's been a great experience though and an amazing place to visit and work in.
We're now in Quito, sheltering from a huge thunder storm, before heading off to the Amazon for 5 days! Watch out Anacondas, with our new found machete skills, we take no prisoners...
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Quito, Ecuador

We had a great weekend in Canoa, on the coast - beautiful sunsets, quiet fishing village, cocktails on the beach...pretty near perfect! There were some amazing surfers and inspired by their efforts we decided to hire som boards for the afternoon and I think it´s safe to say we got completely munched!!! I swallowed two gut-fulls of salt water and ended up black and blue. Those there pacific waves take no prisoners!!!
We´ve had another great week at La Hesperia. Each week seems to get better and better. This week saw us working with the medicinial plants, which was fascintating, learning about all their different properties, making bread, taking the milk down to be sold in the village at the bottom of the hill, planting more trees in the forest, and on the friday we went for a brilliant hike following a river upstream to a waterfall. The forest is so dense around the river, it was more of a tropical obstical course than a hike, over rocks, under trees, through the river, and ended up at a waterfall, which we climbed part way up, getting soaked in the process.
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Quito, Ecuador

So here we are at the end of our second week at La Hesperia, and we´ve milked cows, chopped down lots of jungle, planted trees, made chocolate paste, shovelled cow dung (nice), and we felt we deserved a little break so we´ve come to the coast for the weekend. Palm trees, sunsets, long emtpy sandy beach, surf, it´s a nightmare ;-)
Here are some pics to keep you up to date.
xx
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