TravelStream™ news feed for member charmedlife on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/charmedlife en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 10 Dec 2009 17:18:57 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1163386020/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1163386020/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1163386020/tpod.html Thu, 10 Dec 2009 17:18:57 -0500 On my way across the world: to meet new people, see new places, and better appreciate home.

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Sakya, Tibet, China

Continuing on our way west towards the Himalayas, we climb ever higher into the world's highest mountain range. We are now used to the bump and jostling of the 4x4's and mostly think this is a pretty fun way to travel. We are delighted by the weather, which has warmed up with bright sunshine and crystal clear days, with brilliantly blue skies. We arrive in the dusty, dry town of Sakya, and stay in its only hotel. We laze about outside in the warm sun, peeling off our layers and become an instant attraction. Children swarm us, while adults regard us with distant curiosity and timid smiles. What is it about children that makes them so bold and brave? Unencumbered by fear, they cling to us with little hands and smiling eyes, peering into ours with wonder and awe at our light skin and different colored hair. They have never seen such odd looking people. We become pied pipers as these little people follow us everywhere, including the Sakya Monastery which is the reason we came to this out of the way post. I love that the towns' childfolk have welcomed us. They laugh and smile and become our friends with only the knowledge of "hello". After touring the monastery, which was built in 1073 - yes these places are mind bogglingly ancient - and has another precious jeweled statue of Buddha, we take a long walk to the nunnery across the river. We are guided by a tiny little boy, who I guess is about 7 years old. Turns out, he is 15! He is a zen master already, as he avoids the rush of the other children and slowly catches our eyes and walks in front of us. He doesn't say a word, just looks and gently smiles. He motions for us to follow, and we go across the river to see stupas positioned in perfect view of the monastery we just visited. He continues along rocky, narrow paths with high walls that seem more fit for goats than humans. However, the views are stunning and we are grateful for our little Tibetan sherpa. He leads us to the nunnery, where we meet the Tibetan nuns and decide to pay him for his excellent service. He was the perfect host in this rugged land. Apparently in these hills there are 8 hotwater springs of the Sakya emperors. However, we did not find the springs or any water in this town. The hotel while built directly in front of the river, forgot to buy rights to the river (or forgot to pay) and had faucets but no water. We are used to this by now, and continue on our rugged journey through the wild lands of Tibet.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1222289100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1222289100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1222289100/tpod.html Sat, 19 Sep 2009 21:58:47 -0400 On my way across the world: to meet new people, see new places, and better appreciate home.

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Haiku, Hawaii, United States

At one point on my travels, I thought about heading to Hawai'l from the Pacific region, then going up to Alaska. I could hang out and get to know these exotic locales without having to worry about visas, and if I needed to, I could work and make some moola. However, that idea got nixed when airfare from Australia to da islands in the spring was not affordable. Instead, I headed north to Bangkok and then on to London, spending the summer in the UK, Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. That turned out to be exactly where I needed to be at that time. After spending the winter of 2008 in New Hampshire, where a record snowfall meant over 100 inches of the white stuff, I decided to use some of my frequent flyer miles accumulated on my travels to finally head over to the westernmost islands to see if it might be a good place to hibernate over the long, cold winter. Not so much to escape the snow, which I adore, but to avoid the astronomically high heating oil bills, currently hovering at about $4/gallon. That could mean two or three grand just to make it through the winter! So I thought I owed it to myself to check out warmer climes. Having already lived in Florida, a friend suggested I check out Maui. So I booked my frequent flyer ticket, got myself a house off Craigslist overlooking the Pacific on the magical north side of the island in a place called Haiku, and flew across the country and halfway across the Pacific. Voila, I find myself in a land with the most perfect weather I've encountered on my travels. My friend picked me up from the airport, decked me out in leis of tuberose and orchids, and we headed over to Lahaina town and listened to live jazz and ate fish burgers at the Cool Cat Cafe. A Mai Tai got me further into the island spirit. The next few days I spent lounging in the sun, swimming the surf and watching the unbelievable sunsets across Lahaina bay to the island of Lanai. Over the next week, my friend took me to a beach with crystal blue waters for swimming, bordered by shade trees to protect mere mainland mortals from the island sun. Then off to another strand, this one flanked by languid coconut palms blowing in the tradewinds. Here the aqua waves were manageable enough for me to surf. I hadn't been on a board since Jan. 2007 surf camp in Lancelin Beach on the west coast of Australia. I was stoked to be out on the waves again, and with my friend's gentle instruction, I got up and rode a few waves all the way in. Of course, no photos of that - but great memories. There is something awesome about feeling the ocean's power underneath you, tapping into its energy and cooperating with it to guide you into shore for a ride. I wonder why we can't cooperate with nature all the time?? Life would be so much smoother........ We also explored the hip little town of Pai'ia, nearby to my house, with its quaint shops, fantastic restaurants, awesome beaches and natural food market. I also checked out Makawao, where there are lots of artists studios, most famously glass blowing http://www.hotislandglass.com/index.html and Kula, on the way heading up the dormant volcano of Haleakala, with panoramic bicoastal views of the verdant Western Maui mountains. Here we visited the Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm, where we had a tour of the lovely gardens which filled our noses with the soothing fragrance of the many varieties of lavender, and seeing protea and other tropical plants. http://www.aliikulalavender.com/akl_tours_parties.asp#2 After our tour, we enjoyed lavender tea & dark chocolate while overlooking the tremendous views of the western part of the island, and got a gorgeous bouquet of proteas & eucalyptus for $3!! We then headed to Ulapalakua to see the winery, which was closed by the time we arrived. Not an issue, as it was the stunning landscapes along the way that was the real treat. Rolling hills and open farmland in every shade of green reminded me of Ireland and Scotland, with mists floating down from the high summit of the sacred volcano of Haleakala. There were even old stone walls to separate the historic farm lands. This section of the island is "old Hawai'i". The ancient land and its old trees almost whispered its secrets to us as we slowly wound our way through its narrow lanes. A circle of trees at the winery tells me they are glad I have come to visit. I am glad too.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1164682980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1164682980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1164682980/tpod.html Sat, 19 Sep 2009 04:36:51 -0400 On my way across the world: to meet new people, see new places, and better appreciate home.

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Chitwan National Park, Nepal

After leaving my puppy dog guide, I take a public bus for a six hour ride on barely traverseable roads west to see some wildlife in Chitwan National Park. Immediately upon getting down from the mountains the weather changes from bone dry to moist, humid air, and the vegetation becomes even more lush than the marijuana strewn hillsides of the lower Annapurnas. I stay at the Rhino Residency Resort, across the river from Chitwan. The next day I hike all day long through the thick heat looking for rhinos, wild elephants, tigers and sloth bears. Truth be told, I really do not care to run into any of these animals while on foot. I feel as tiny as a lowly ant, walking through this forest of grass. Taking up the rear of our party did not add to my comfort level. My motto is always to hike as slow as the slowest hiker, and when ferocious animals are part of the mix, I felt like it would be good manners for at least one guide with a weapon to be behind me. I recalled another motto when facing a hungry animal. "I don't have to outrun him, I just have to outrun you." Being the last of the pack was not where I wanted to be in Darwin's line. A German traveler Hans was extremely into this hike, acting as if we were in battle in the 1920's. It wasn't that much different, only we had nothing but cameras between us and the big boys. Weaving in and out of elephant grass that truly is "as high as an elephant's eye", my guide assures me that our Tharo companion can protect us with his stick. After seeing the Tharo people dance a protection dance around the campfire that night, I can better appreciate that these sticks might, just might, protect me against a fearsome tiger. However I sincerely doubt that if Tony has me in mind for dinner, a stick won't stop him. I survive my all day long jungle walk seeing only birds, crocodiles (from a safe distance) and monkeys. The next morning I meet my elephant friend, Madru Kali, who is to be my guide on a jungle safari. On her back I feel inifinitely more comfortable in the jungle, with the exception being that I am now much closer to the leopards, who prefer to hang out in the trees. I see beautiful kapok trees in this jungle, and am reminded of my parent's favorite restaurant in Florida. In this jungle these trees grow mighty and strong, their roots spreading out wide like the foot of a great bird. I love my elephant and am reluctant to leave her, but I pose with her and then get a bath with the other working elephants down at the river. This is how I lose a pair of glasses, but well worth it! In the afternoon I go on a canoe ride in a hollowed out kapok tree, which is about the most tippy boat I've ever been in. I use all my power to relax, and try not to think about the 3 species of crocodile that live in the river and the German man who continually shifts the boat causing to lean precariously towards the flowing water. Finally we drift to the shore and get back on foot for another walk through the jungle, where I spot male tiger spoor (paw prints) and see trees thrashed, the work of a herd of wild elephants. My heart beating nearly out of my chest now, I am relieved to see the elephant breeding center, where I go safely behind a fence to see newly born baby elephants. In a few minutes, the walk and the canoe ride becomes worthwhile.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180272300/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180272300/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180272300/tpod.html Sat, 19 Sep 2009 03:55:29 -0400 On my way across the world: to meet new people, see new places, and better appreciate home.

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Brecon, Wales, United Kingdom

Wales has winding country roads, ancient castles, good organic beer and green hills that call to you to get out of the car and climb. This is fantastic country. Too bad the weather is crappy. I really want to go hiking. The YHA here is great. It has delicious, cheap organic beer and hot homemade meals. This makes a great base to explore Brecon Beacons National Park, but due to the weather I'm off. I drive through the park to the quaint village of Brecon itself. I find a cute B&B across from the Cathedral of St. John for $50 which gives me my own room. Although it's raining I get a few snacks from the grocery store and explore the town. I wait to go into the church until later, I'm not sure why I do this. When I finally do go inside, there is a mass being sung. What they say about the Wesh choir is true. With the accompanying acoustics from the old church, the voices sound angelic, washing over me and the other pilgrims. I am astounded by the beauty, and wonder how it is that virtually every time I step into a holy site, music is playing??? This is noteworthy, and this concert is so unexpected and so delightful I see if I can record it on my MP3. Now I can hear the voices of angels whether I'm in Wales or in Lake Wobegon. Delightful.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180126953/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180126953/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180126953/tpod.html Sat, 19 Sep 2009 03:29:36 -0400 On my way across the world: to meet new people, see new places, and better appreciate home.

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London, England, United Kingdom

After the 12 plus hour but amazingly uncrowded journey from Bangkok, I lucked out and had 3 seats to myself so I was able to actually get some shuteye. I love Thai Airways. They and Qatar Airways had the very best service, food and new airplanes. Thai stewardesses dress up as if for a night out to the opera, in long gorgeous silk skirts with tailored suit jackets in complementary colors. The plane is bright with pink, orange and majenta seating, and beautiful artwork is everywhere, including menus for your food. Since I got the veggie meal I got my food first, a big plus, but a little skimpier than other food items on the menu. I loved Thailand too, but that's a different subject! Arriving in England for the first time in 20 years I am amazed at how it's grown. It is also much more expensive, and since my London pals are still living in Sydney, and it costs $120 to get downtown from Heathrow, I decide that sleep is more important than sightseeing. I use my Marriott points again to stay at the closest hotel, while I slept a bit on the plane between the long flight and the going back in time I prefer to get a good bed and a shower. I decide I love mixing occasional stays at four star hotels with youth hostels. The hotels afford me privacy and luxury for when I need a little boost. The youth hostels and guest houses are my preferred accommodations as I meet fellow travelers and can usually count on getting good cheap meals. I find that hotels nickel and dime people to death with fees for phones, snacks and computer usage, and charge exorbinantly for meals. After a sound night's slumber, I bravely or rather, insanely decide to rent a car because I've grown weary of public transport and don't want to rely on schedules at the moment. An expensive but decidedly correct choice for the moment, it gives me the temporary and altogether pseudo confidence that I'm back in control of my life. Travel, after all, is all about letting go....... Once in the car I realize what a fool to think this would be a safe haven. London drivers are crazed and of course on the left side still but that's okay I'm used to it now, meaning I have to be as totally crazed - but hey at least I use my directional!! Look just writing about driving in London traffic makes me stressed. It takes me a bit of doing (like an hour) to get out of Heathrow with all the crazy roundabouts, but finally I'm motorway bound and headed to the countryside.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180098000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180098000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1180098000/tpod.html Sat, 19 Sep 2009 03:18:33 -0400 On my way across the world: to meet new people, see new places, and better appreciate home.

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Bath, England, United Kingdom

With a big sigh of relief I adjust fine to driving on the left side of the road, having only driven in Australia since leaving home. I make the drive from London to the west in relatively good time, only to encounter more traffic, this time caused by a festival. I use my intuition and make a local's shortcut by using my inherited sense of direction from busdriver Dad (thanks pa pa!) and avoid motorway traffic to head for Bath and am happy to see it is still very much the same. This is the first repeat hostel - it took me a while to find but I end up staying in the same place I did in 1987! I vaguely recalled the exterior of the building, and it's driveway but memory erased everything else. I walk around forever because it is light until 10pm afterall, and I don't go to sleep until after midnight, the start of a very bad trend up here in the North Atlantic. Bath is a lovely city of large Georgian facade homes and streets. It is quite picturesque and I took plenty of photos which I'll update next session. I spent the next morning acquainting myself with the recently renovated public baths of Bath, touted as the finest in all of Europe. I have come to taking claims such as these with a grain of salt, everywhere I go seems to have the "best, biggest or grandest" of the world! Occassionally the claims are true, but mostly it is simple bragging and pride at the local attractions. However, for a modest sum ($23) for 3 hours and a towel, you can totally relax in the mineral rich waters in a modern facility next door to where the Romans enjoyed the same pleasure. I've gotta say, it's quite the life. Although overly crowded due to a bank holiday weekend, the waters were fantastic and soothing. And I've even grown accustomed to steam rooms. This bath house had 4, with varying aromatherapy fragances united by a refreshing cool open group shower in the middle of the room. You could inhale mountain pine, frankincense, lavender or my favorite, mint eucalyptus. I went into that room several times..... The rooftop pool was also a star attraction, and I decided that Bath was the perfect place for a girls long weekend when those cheap fares to London come across my email back in the hazy days of working.....
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1188748980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1188748980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1188748980/tpod.html Sat, 19 Sep 2009 02:53:40 -0400 On my way across the world: to meet new people, see new places, and better appreciate home.

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La Baule, France

Next, I rush to catch an early train from Toulouse to the beach town of La Baule in in Bretagne (Brittany), a long 8 hour journey. Okay this will definitely sound like a cliche, but I was riding the rails past fields of sunflowers and farmer´s crops, rolling through the city of Bordeaux and seeing people out tending garden plots and their hedges, or vinters lovingly caring for their grapes. Watching these scenes, I thought about how much I love France. As the first foreign country I ever visited, back when I was only fifteen, when both my speaking and comprehension of the French language was far superior to my choppy attempts at speaking it today. I visited Paris with my high school French class and our teacher, Monsieur Normand, and we toured the Louvre, Louis XIV Palace of Versailles, the huge Parisian department stores La Galleries Lafayette and Printemps, the Pompidou Center and the champagne cellars of Piper Heidseck, as well as Chartres cathedral and Jeanne D´arc Cathedral in Reims. Back then I was as excited as being allowed to order a glass of wine with dinner as I was by being in France itself. But I did recall loving the fresh deliveries of baguettes and croissants each morning to our hotel for breakfast and the delicious hot chocolate made especially for us. Fast forward 26 years later to 2007, and I´m delighted to report that the food is still delicieux, the architecture is still grand, and the scenery is as magnificent. I am extremely grateful to partake, and soaking up every minute of my time here. After my week in St. Gery, with its fresh market on Sunday where I used my French to buy fresh Lot valley produce like melons, tomatos and Rocamadour cheese, Cahors wine, olives and freshly baked bread, I was in heaven. It occurred to me then that the French have it all - fantastic food, the world´s best wine, open spaces, historic buildings and a modern functioning society. While the differences here are much more subtle than Asia, where everything is a big change from what you know, I´ve been able to observe many. The slower pace of life in the South West of France is lovely, and it keeps to that pace in Bretagne as well. This beach town of La Baule is not much different from home, with its gift shops with knick knacks for sale, but again a market (similar to Eastern Market) was held in the town square on both weekend days, making for a fantastic experience. Of course, this enticed me to buy 2 French tablecloths and a part cashmere sweater, with no where to put either!! Cést la vie! I´ve discovered this is what the postal service is for, and have mailed a few things home......I do not venture far, mostly taking long walks along the quite developed shoreline. I contemplate taking the bus or a bicycle to where they collect salt from the sea, but I'm definitely growing weary of my long days. I'm quite interested in seeing this but decide instead to loll around on the beach, playing in the sand, watching the French people on holiday. I'm quite content to buy a chocolate croissant for dinner, marvel at the disfigured coastal pines and watch the Atlantic roll in.
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Toulouse, Midi-Pyrénées, France

After a few days, I decided to check out the larger city of Toulouse, and was rewarded with an engaging, cosmopolitan city with a decidedly country flair. Toulouse is on the route for pilgrims along the Santiago de Compostella, and its architecture reflects the glory of heavenly inspiration. Fantastic arches rising to almost unbelievable heights make me gape and look like a hungry baby bird.
Again, phenomenal food - the homemade chocolate mousse at lunch was to die for, a modern city with a university and home to the aeronautics industry in France, but with history under every step and with a unique, laid back feel. I enjoyed every sumptuous minute of traveling in this region.
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Cahors, Midi-Pyrénées, France

Upon leaving my lovely villa, I returned to a charming, affordable hotel near the train station in Cahors, and explored that medieval town of 21,000 a bit better. The cathedrals, the 700 year old fortified Pont Valentre, and more winding streets, farmers markets and promenades along the Lot in the warm summer sun made for a delightful August.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1187446500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1187446500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/charmedlife/rtw-2006/1187446500/tpod.html Sat, 19 Sep 2009 02:11:23 -0400 On my way across the world: to meet new people, see new places, and better appreciate home.

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St. Gery, France

It took a crazy route to get here, but what a delicious experience, having a French villa all to myself in the gorgeous South West of la belle France. From Prague, to Milan, to Brussels then finally to Toulouse, I take an hour train ride to Cahors (pronounced Ka - hor) with the emphasis on the Ka and that great French "h") Try it!! I spent a week at a villa I learned about from a fantastic Australian couple who I met in Andalsnes, Norway. They were riding across Europe on their motorbike, and they hooked me up with the villa's owner. Two months later I arrived to find a wonderful, charming home that was an old farmhouse in the tiny village of St. Gery. On the Lot River, this village had a market every Sunday, where I bought my week's worth of groceries. I was able to buy delicious olives, freshly picked nuts, fermier cheese (farmer made), Cahors wine, fresh veggies and melons, and of course freshly baked bread and croissants. My mouth waters just writing and remembering the torrent of flavors! I cooked every night and enjoyed marvelous wine. Since it rained 5 of the 7 days I was at the villa, I read loads of books and watched several movies and basically chilled out. Being on the road for so long, this was an absolute haven for my body, mind and soul. With every day being a flurry of activity and my brain filling with information of every sort, this was a chance to sit back and do next to nothing for an entire week. I enjoyed cooking again, and when the weather was fine I took a walk to the village of Bouzies, and up the hill towards St. Cirq Lapopie, overlooking the River Lot, the limestone walls of its banks and farmer's fields. A fantastic time in an area where time almost stands still. The locals were extremely friendly and welcomed my attempts at conversing en Francais. I will come back to this area again, as without a car it is challenging to get to all the region´s nooks and crannies. I was able to sightsee by bus, going to the medieval town of Figeac as well, which was fantastic with its winding streets and delicious fare. I had a delicious white wine recommended by my waiter, who knew that I did not want a sweet white with dinner. I had the Tariquet, and made it a point to write it down so I could order it again later. The Lot region had much to see, smell, taste and do. J'adore France.
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