TravelStream™ news feed for member carlstancil on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/carlstancil en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Wed, 07 May 2008 22:12:28 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204774740/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204774740/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204774740/tpod.html Wed, 07 May 2008 22:12:28 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Hanoi, Vietnam

The city has grown into the surrounding rice paddies with many industrial areas with large corporations like Sony, Panasonic, Canon, etc. The banks of the Hong Son (Red River) are filling with large opulent residences indicating the money which is coming here. As I ride toward the city high rises appear out of the smog like ghosts. Even the Old Chinese Quarter where I am staying is beginning to see destruction of the old houses and their replacement with tourist hotels.
The Camellia is still there on Trung Yen but Mr. Quang has retired and the prices have doubled from $5 to $10 per night. The street market is just around the corner minus the fowl venders because of the continuing Avian Flu Virus.

Around the neighborhood "Homeland Security" is provided by the Feline Surveillance Committee: The Committee also provides late night entertainment at no additional charge.
There are more and larger cars and SUVs everywhere: BMWs, Lexus, Toyotas and I've been told there are even Hummers. Clearly there is prosperity for some but for most its much the same. There are even traffic signals but not all drivers respect them so if you are wanting to cross the street you still have to have your wits about you. The traffic is a brutal mix of buses, SUVs, trucks, cars, taxis, motorbikes, bicycles and pedestrians. The right of way is ultimately determined by the size of the vehicle. The noise and pollution is intense and a walk a few blocks during commute hours can result in eye and throat irritation. Many city dwellers wear face masks.
City workers keep the infrastructure working under the heavy burden of Vietnamese and foreign tourists. City electricians keep the electrical power flowing reliably by replacing old equipment with new. Small shops rebuild old hardware like transformers to be placed back in service saving both environmental resources and money.
Though Hanoi has become a busy polluted city there are still many quiet and beautiful areas to be found. Ho Hoan Kiem (Hoan Kiem Lake) is one such place. Some of the back alleys of the Old Quarter can be quiet too.

Each of the over one million inhabitants is a story. I discovered a part of one this morning while in the market in the Old Quarter. As I stalked a photo of a group of elderly women sitting just outside their front door which fronts on the market I felt a soft touch on my elbow and heard what I thought was French with a very heavy Vietnamese accent.

I turned to discover a lean old Vietnamese man with pith helmet. I strained to understand what he was saying. I asked him in French where he learned the language. I heard something about Angola. He had studied in Angola! He asked me if I was French. I said no I was American. His eyes got big and he smiled. Yes, I said I have returned to the Vietnam that I grown to love to repair some of the damage I was involved in creating. One of the shopkeepers agreed to take our photo after he requested some dollars. I said I only had Vietnamese Dong (VND)and caught the approving eyes of nearby shopkeepers as I offered him 2000VND. In a flash he was gone and no one seemed to know his name.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206515820/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206515820/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206515820/tpod.html Sun, 27 Apr 2008 00:52:37 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Nong Khiaw, Vietnam

As morning light begins I look around the very special treat I've found for myself. The outside landscape takes shape and I see the Nam Ou river is framed by steep limestone mountains set in a morning mist. A Praying Mantis sits on the railing reminding me to be really "Present".
The air is cool so I decide to explore the forest/jungle. I'm not sure if snakes are a problem here so I walk carefully. The vegetation is lush and green even though the Mong still practice slash and burn agriculture. I see very few animals but a camelion catches my eye.

** Cluster Bombs http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/asia/article3818771.ece
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205750580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205750580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205750580/tpod.html Mon, 21 Apr 2008 21:10:38 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Hanoi, Vietnam

The major purpose for my travel was to attend the meeting of the International Committee of the Vietnam Friendship Village aka. Village de l'Amitié and celebrate ten years of operation of the Village. I have traveled to the Village many times since 1996 but haven't been there since 2004. Since my last visit much construction has taken place funded by donations from individuals and committees throughout the world as well as the Association of Vietnamese Veterans.

Each 2 years the International Committee consisting of representatives for the country committees of Canada, France, Germany, Japan and the U.S. meet with the Association of Vietnamese Veterans (VAVN) to examine the progress made over the past 2 years and agree on the plan and budget for the next 2 years. This process normally takes 3 or 4 days, but because of the 10 year celebration the meeting and celebration were combined making the visit a time of intense activity.
The first thing I noticed as we neared the Village was the new entry gate. It looked more like the Arc De Triomphe than the entry to a healing facility for children. Perhaps it was the colonial influence. As we walked the grounds we were impressed by the major expansion since 2004. The most prominent are the new administration building, the primary school funded by the Vietnam Children's Fund and the well outfitted hospital.

The opening ceremonybegan with a bit of formality followed by paying our respects to the late George Mizo one of the founders as well as Jeff Paco Huch one of the first presidents of the U. S. Committee.

The meetings were the culmination of months of informal work mostly by email creating draft reports and budgets in Vietnamese, English, French, German and Japanese.
The final work involved clarifying and negotiating the final language. In solidarity we celebrate our work and the final agreement.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206681060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206681060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206681060/tpod.html Thu, 17 Apr 2008 19:55:07 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Luang Pra Bang, Lao Peoples Dem Rep

The Old Royal City is situated on a peninsula at the confluence of the Khan and Mekong rivers. The center of the city is dominated by a hill called Phousi topped by a small temple and covered by lush gardens and Buddha figures noteably the Prabang Buddha. There are dozens of wats (temples) in and around the city. Monks are constantly visible on the streets. Young Lao men are expected to spend some time as a monk. Some choose to continue and make it their vocation.
I was last in LPB in 2004 and I've heard that there are more tourists than before but the city is still a beautiful lazy place where one can chill out. Well it's true there are more tourists but they are most noticeable on the main street. Once one gets away from "croissant corridor" things seen unchanged. Unlike Vietnam there are a small number of motorbikes and the rules of the road seem to be more considerate. One of the most relaxing and beautiful places to appreciate the former Royal City is on the banks of the Mekong river which forms the western boundary of the town. The north and eastern boundary of the city is the Khan River which can be crossed by several bridges.
I searched for a small coffee stall which I had frequented on my previous trip. I found it and to my surprise I found a man that I had spoken with in 2004. He is a French speaking Lao man who was a pilot during the "Secret War". If my understanding of his heavily Lao accented French is correct he was trained in Thailand and flew missions against Cambodia and the Pathet Lao in the 70s. He's the guy on my right with the Japanese shirt. Others in the photo are the woman owner of the shop, a doctor with a tattoo. Missing is a former teacher who is fluent in both English and French who had become a tour guide because the pay of a teacher was not enough to support his family. I felt like a member of the community hanging out with "the good olde boys". This sort of encounter with real connection is what I like about traveling alone. It makes me feel less like a tourist/voyeur and more a member of the human family.
It's starting to get hot by 10 AM so I begin to make my way through the open market toward the Cold River Guest House my home away from home. As I walk by a shop I notice electrical supplies and other building hardware. I see electrical wire, plastic pipe, gasoline powered generators, screws, nails and endless other building materials displayed inside and onto the sidewalk. Some microhydro generators catch my eye. I recognise them from the trip down the Nam Ou. There were many deployed in the river on bamboo platforms generating electricity for the small villages nearby. A young Lao man from the shop come over and asks in English if I have any questions. Wow! English! I ask him about the generators: What is the output power? (350W) Where are they made? (China) Seeing them reminds me of my visit to Dr. Loc at Hanoi Tech. several years ago. He and his students had developed a very efficient microhydro generator they were trying to commercialize. They found that the Chinese unity although less efficient was outselling theirs because it was cheaper. As it turns out the young man is a teacher of English at the Luang Pra Bang Institute of Technology.
Today I fly back to Hanoi. Though it's exciting to see new places and get to know the people there it takes a great deal of energy. I always get slowed by URIs (upper respiratory infections) from the dust and pollution. I'm really ready to be back in Arcata. I make my way to the tiny airport just outside LPB and attempt to check in. The Lao staff won't permit it because they don't see a visa for Vietnam. They know that if they fly me to Vietnam and Vietnamese authorities will not let me in they will have to fly me back. I argue (unconvincingly) that I have paid for "Visa on Arrival". They say that only EU and certain other countries are eligible. "Not possible for Americans", they insist. Unfortunately I did not receive a copy of the original. I'm stuck. The manager a very calm Lao man explains in very broken English that he is not permitted to let me board w/o a valid visa. The plane will arrive in an hour! There is no flight tomorrow and my flight home leaves the next day from Hanoi. What a pickle! I have visions of having to replace my trans Pacific return ticket. He says he may be able to get a $90 express visa from the Vietnamese Consul in LPB before they close. My mind thinks "Scam", but he's got me. I quickly fill out the visa form and pull a spare photo (mug shot)I carry for such situations from my papers. Then the $90?? My money belt is nearly empty of USD. I find only a few Chat and some Dong. Is there an ATM? Yes but only one but I will only take Lao bank cards! I'm stuck again! I resort to requesting a short term loan from passengers waiting for the plane. No luck. He finally calls the Vietnam Air Manager who is able to get a cash advance over his cell phone from my credit card. Taking the visa application, photo and $90 he summons a young man with a motorbike and has him zip the materials to the Consulate before they close. Now I just wait and cross my fingers realizing that it can't be a Scam because a Vietnamese Express Visa does cost $90. In 40 minutes the young man on the motorbike returns with my passport and nice new Visa. Things are not supposed to happen this fast in Laos. Amazing. Wheels up and off to Hanoi. Whew!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206435120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206435120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206435120/tpod.html Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:57:14 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Muang Khua, Lao Peoples Dem Rep

After a day of recovery from the dusty trip to Dien Bien Phu I buy a ticket across the border to Muang Khua, Lao Peoples Democratic Republic, a small village on the Nam Ou river. The following morning I again find myself in a dark bus station looking for the bus to a distant destination with people and other creatures I've yet to meet.
I catch the bus at 5:30AM and begin to climb the jungle covered mountain range which separates the two countries. As we climb the temperature begins to drop. Near the top are the Vietnamese and Laotian border control crossings. The first thing I notice is that Laos provides VISA on entry and at a price of $25 vs. $45 in Hanoi!! The crossing officials see little activity so I'm good entertainment and so are they. They were willing to take my photo but were unwilling to have theirs taken. At the Laos side one of the officers was educated at the Leycee in Vientiane and speaks excellent French. My bus mates were a bit shy but a few brave souls were willing. It's always important to ask permission!!The women are wearing traditional Hmong dress I think. There are so many ethnic groups I can't keep track.
After a very relaxed border crossing we lumber down the hillside toward Muang Khua on a road that is no longer paved fording deep streams and passing through indigenous villages with pigs, chickens and dogs running everywhere.


After 3 hrs of bouncing around with my mobile family we arrive at the Nam Ou river crossing where the ferry has broken down. There are however long boats ferrying people, animals and possessions across the swiftly flowing river.

I make my way across and find a guest house called Nam Ou overlooking the river.

"Homeland Security" quickly arrives and checks my papers.

I have no "Kip" (Lao money) and the village is closed. But as with most things the attitude is "no problem". The bank will be open tomorrow. I can't get away anyway. So I settle in for the evening. Soon two bicyclists (a young couple from Berkeley) who have been touring Thailand, Vietnam and Laos show up. I remember passing them on the way down from the border crossing. What a treat to speak some English!
I plan to catch a boat down river tomorrow to the village of Nong Khiaw which is said to be in an idillic setting surrounded by limestone peaks. However the following day I find that boats may not go as there are not enough people to share the cost. After waiting most of the morning I realize I must take the bus. Nuts!! At 12:30PM I catch the local bus with the "usual suspects" and make the 4 hour ride to Udomxai and change to another going to Pak Mong. Nong Khiaw is 15km beyond Pak Mong (the end of the line)but the driver stays with a friend there and takes me the rest of the way! What a kind thing to do. I come to find that this sort of consideration is typically Lao.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206258600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206258600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1206258600/tpod.html Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:52:56 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam

I began at the southern bus station in Hanoi at 5AM catching a public minibus north. The schedule is 8 hrs and the route is west to Hoa Binh, north to Son La and finally north west to Dien Bien Phu. As we wind our way though the outskirts of Hanoi the morning light increases as does the Hanoi traffic. On the streets there are people going to work by bus, van, car, motorbike, bicycle and even walking. Most vehicles are packed with people, animals, goods etc. It is not uncommon to see 3 persons, 1 adult and 3 kids, 1 person and 3 pigs or 1 person and 20 ducks on a single motorbike. The "Rules of the Road" are the vehicle with the loudest horn has the right of way with vehicle size being a key factor.
In an hour we pass through the town of Hoa Binh (Peace) and traffic lightens up. At about noon we are nearing Son La and the halfway mark (400km). We stop at a local "Greasy Spoon" for fried pork, veggies and rice.
Beyond Son La the road becomes a construction zone rough, dusty and busy with large trucks.For what seems like days we grind our way over the mountains on the rough, dusty road to where the French met their final defeat. It was the battle of Dien Bien Phu that helped the French decide to abandon their colonial aspirations. Unfortunately the U.S. decided to take their place.
I stumble from the bus near the center of this small town (40,000)which is the most populous in the north west of Vietnam. I notice a fabric shop across the street with a small sign saying guest house. I make my way across the busy street and ask, "Room for One?" laying my head on my hands as on a pillow. She points upstairs. I motion with hands in the form of spectacles that I would like to look. Hum, clean, mosquito net, bathroom, $8 ... OK. I'm tired and don't want to look further. I immediately stretch out and take a nap!
After an hour or so I'm revived and begin to explore the town which is the hub of NW Vietnam. Soon I discover that the only Internet is a gaming shop filled with yelling teen gamers. Oh well I'll just send off a couple of short messages. It's getting dark now and the noodle cafes are closed but I manage to persuade one to serve me a passable stir fry and beer. The next morning I discover a coffee house and order a cafe sua nong (Hot Vietnamese coffee with canned milk). I notice a group of Vietnamese men across the aisle trying to get my attention. They speak little English and my Vietnamese is extremely limited. We start with ages. I'm the oldest. Then where we live (a map helps here). They are on a holiday from Da Nang where they work. They are very surprised to find an American traveling alone. The dialog is mostly mime, with sketches and my travel map. I wish I had brought my phrase book! Damn!I return to my guest house in the afternoon and sit at the storefront writing in my journal watching the activities in the street. A refrigerator goes by on a motorbike and it's no big deal. The husband of the storekeeper comes and sits beside me. He speaks no English or French, but through maps, much pointing and mime I discover he was a veteran (Viet Cong)had served in the DMZ, went to liberate Saigon then was shipped to Cambodia to fight the Khmer Rouge. He really was excited pointing to places on the may where he had done battle. If only I had stronger language skills in Vietnamese!
The next morning at 5:30 I'm at the edge of town roaming the bus station looking for the bus to the Lao border and Muang Khua.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205922600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205922600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205922600/tpod.html Sat, 12 Apr 2008 17:38:15 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Ha Long, Vietnam

After a hectic two weeks the International Committee was hosted by the Vietnamese Committee on a cruise, lunch and caving on Ha Long Bay (now a World Heritage Site)on the northern coast of Vietnam. Though it was a foggy morning the air was warm and fresh. The three hour bus ride put us at Ha Long the town where we stepped aboard the boat which was to ferry us through the islands and to several caves.It is a sharp contrast from noisy, frantic, polluted Hanoi. The limestone islands shelter many small fishing villages some are completely floating. For me it is a welcome break from the constant listening and speaking in both Vietnamese and French. The quiet beauty of The Bay has its own language and needs on translation.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205994360/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205994360/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1205994360/tpod.html Sat, 12 Apr 2008 17:22:59 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Hanoi, Vietnam

After the Village planning and budgeting agreements were finalized for 2008 - 2010 we prepared for the celebration of the accomplishments of the first 10 years of operation. The event was preceedeed the previous evening by a event planned and executed by the children, volunteers, Vietnamese "Rock Stars", staff and members of the surrounding community. The kids really are the program with their music, songs, dances and skits supported by local and nationally known musicians. It was impossible to keep our hands from clapping and toes from tapping.

Everyone really got it on.

Hot air balloons are released into the night sky. It's as if the spirit of George Mizo is there lighting our way.

The following day the formal ceremony took place. Interwoven with speeches by one of the children and the Vice President of Vietnam as well as committee members from all participating countries were meeting of old friends and colleagues. Vietnamese veterans who had been treated at the Village were there too. It was an emotional time for me as a veteran of "The American War" to meet and hug those who I had once considered my enemy. It is hard to realize that only 12 years ago this was a rice paddy and I had no idea what I was to learn.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204627680/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204627680/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204627680/tpod.html Thu, 10 Apr 2008 17:46:07 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Hanoi, Vietnam

I made it to the San Francisco International Airport (SFO). I started in Santa Cruz with a ride from the house to the Metro Center then a I hr ride on the HY 17 bus to San Jose Diridron Station where I catch the CalTrain for the 1hr ride to Millbrae, then a 5min BART ride north and change of train and another 5 min to SFO. Checkin starts for the 12:15 AM 13 hr flight to Taipei at 8:15 PM.
As I wait I notice a young Asian man with 2 elders in their wheel chairs. Later in the checking line he is right behind me so I ask him where he is going.
"Laos.", he responds.
"Do you have family there?", I continue.
"Oh, yes. I have grand parents, aunts, uncles, and others Vientien. I haven't been there in 30 years. There will be a great celebration. These are my parents." he says with a smile.
"Where do you live in the U.S.?", I ask.
"Eureka." he responds.
"Pardon?" I say.
"Eureka!" he repeats.
My eyes widen as I look at him, "I live in Arcata."
We both burst out laughing, It's such a small world!!
Today I arrived in Hanoi and begin to adapt to the changes I see. But first a map to get you started. Here's a photo I took of the plane's monitor: The plane also had a camera in the nose so that we could see forward especially during takeoff and landing. Neat!

As I made my way from the airport I could see that the area had changed since my lat trip in 2002. The smog is still there but in addition there are more cars and trucks on the road. The route is now built with industrial zones with the likes of Sony, Panasonic, Canon etc. closer to Hanoi the suburbs are growing with large expensive homes and highrises. The new buildings appear like ghosts out of the smog.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204157760/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204157760/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/carlstancil/1/1204157760/tpod.html Thu, 10 Apr 2008 17:43:09 -0400 Return to Vietnam

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Arcata, California, United States

It has just snowed a few days ago in Arcata. I hurriedly hitch up the cats to my "Cat Sled". The Lead Cat is already tugging at his harness in anxious apprehension of the long fish (mush) south to the land of eternal sunshine.
We headed south from Humboldt Bay in the early morning. Making our way to Santa Cruz and then to the San Francisco International Airport.
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