TravelStream™ news feed for member bradman on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/bradman en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Mon, 19 Feb 2007 12:15:10 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1171853340/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1171853340/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1171853340/tpod.html Mon, 19 Feb 2007 12:15:10 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

We're back.

OK, OK...many of you readers will actually be saying "you've been back in Canada for a month and a half." And this is true. This entry could have come earlier. But maybe I wanted to let the thought that "we're back," settle prior to making this final entry. Maybe I wanted to prolong the trip a bit longer. Maybe I didn't quite want it to end yet.

And maybe I wanted a bit of time to take in that I can now rest my head on my own bed and listen to my stereo again.

We flew back to Canada on December 31st and rang in the New Year with Tania's parents in Williamstown, Ontario. We made it to about 12:30am and then were not heard from until about 3:00pm the next day. We were exhausted, but were very well taken care of by the always lovely Janet and Brian Keefe. I'd say we were treated like kings, but cats would be more accurate, as we just seemed to laze around in comfort while still getting fed. Not a bad way to get accustomed to being back. A quick trip was also made into Ottawa where we got a chance to catch up with not only a few old friends, but a new one that we made while traveling together in India. Jen had actually remembered all of Tania's rants about Tim Hortons and brought her a cup to the bar we met. Pretty impressive.

We then hopped a flight to Toronto (AKA: the centre of the world) to visit with Tania's sister Lindsey, as well as some other friends. Lindsey again was the perfect hostess, giving up her bed for the weary, and still jet-lagged, travelers. Jim, on the other hand, was not the most gracious host, deciding that the best way to his friends hearts was not through their stomachs, but through their livers. Things were not so pretty after the night of reminiscing about Russia with Jim. We are definitely not as young and foolish as we were when first we all met in Russia - though on that night, we certainly did act like it...(I blame Jim completely).

After TO, there was a brief stint in Vancouver while we found an apartment. Thanks again to Caelem and Hannah who again put up (and put up with) our sorry, homeless selves as we were getting back into the Vancouver groove.

We then headed to Castlegar for a visit. More good times, and some sad, as the main premise for the visit was a memorial for my grandfather who passed away last year. As mentioned throughout the blog, there were times that I could almost feel him along with us during our travels. Given that we never seemed to encounter any great trials over the entire 6 months, maybe we really did have a guardian angel.

After all that, we're now back in Vancouver. Back to the ocean. Back to the mountains. Back to the hockey (though we actually seem to be winning now). Back home.

So as mentioned before, we are all moved into the new apartment. So much so, in fact, that we've already had our first visitor (thanks for coming over Baba!). We also have a cat (he's an odd one, but I'll leave it at that).

So what now?

Well, now Tania's working at the university, helping to write a book, and I am, well, unemployed. Somewhat frustrating, but at the same time, somewhat exciting. Coming back to a relatively hot labour market definitely works to my favour. If any of you readers have a Marketing and/or Communications job you want to throw my way, please feel free...(we have to pay for this trip somehow!!)

Yeah, being back is nice. Having our own bed is nice. Not re-packing every three days is nice. Having a closet, rather than a pack, is nice. Knowing what country we're in is nice. Being closer to friends and family is nice.

And really, being back is now a new adventure.

But, what you came to the blog for is the big trip, so here are some final (randomly assorted) thoughts:

1. When any Canadian (us included) travels, they wear the maple leaf on their pack. At times it did seem quite hokey - like we're all trying to show-off that we're part of some type of exclusive club. But then again, it does make you proud that the simple act of displaying your nationality could actually help you in numerous countries. Just please, fellow Canadians, when traveling, try to limit yourself to one piece of Canadiana at a time. Otherwise, you're just flaunting it.

2. This is the time where my inner hippy will shine. People in the world need to treat their animals better. The Egyptians, Turks and Indians need to take care of their strays - spay and neuter (the animals, that is). And other cultures, stop being so damn barbaric, keeping with the "traditions" of animal cruelty just because your grandparents did it. Stop eating shark fin soup - no matter what you think, it won't help with your erections. Stop grinding tiger bones and stealing gall bladders - the tigers and bears need them more. And for Canada - until a seal pup can wield a club as well as a person, stop beating them and get a real job!

3. Now to appease my inner capitalist - Capitalism works. Communism doesn't. Yeah, things out west aren't perfect, but when some Lefty wearing a Che shirt comes crying that we're so oppressed here and that Communisim is the only way for a healthy and prosperous society, I'd like to tell them to check out what happened in Soviet Russia, Khmer Rouge Cambodia and what's currently happening in North Korea. If we really want to see sustainable (this word is key) improvements in the lives of people throughout the world, we need to talk about an open and global economy. We need to break down barriers to trade (tariffs, subsidies, etc.) and other protectionist policies. Let people and goods move as they wish, and as the market demands.

Wow - that's probably enough ranting, but I do ask, that you read for just a bit longer.

When many people travel, they say that they're impressed with "how much everyone is the same", or, how afterward, they've "gained a real appreciation for their own country". Well, I've always appreciated being born in Canada, and having all the rights and privileges (of which there are many) that come along with that - so I can't say that after the trip I really appreciate my country even more. Nor can I say that everyone that I met really shared my point of view. Quite the opposite really - many did not. So I can't really agree that "we're all the same." What I can say, and what Tania may disagree with me on, is that overall, people are good.

Friends completely opened up their homes to us. Near strangers opened up their homes to us. Random people bought us beers, cooked us dinners and showed us around. They pointed us in the directions we needed to go, and usually did so smiling.

Taking this a step (or a giant leap) further. Many atrocities have happened in places that we have visited. In some places, some of these atrocities are still happening (though on a smaller scale). What struck me was the capacity for people on whom these atrocities were committed to not dwell on their misfortunes, deciding rather to move on with living. It really is astounding. In the movies it's all about avenging oneself and getting justice. That's not always possible, and I would take that statement step further and say, that it is far more common that justice is never achieved. I personally think it takes a far stronger person to realize that the pursuit of justice can more often than not, lead to more problems. To have seen people, who could so rightly hate the world around them, being warm, smiling, and living their lives, says a great deal about the human spirit.

Do they forgive? Probably not. But they do not try to exact vengeance, knowing that it could only lead to more bloodshed; and really, what would be the point? Who wins from this decision? Themselves to a point, but mainly, their children. Who else wins? The rest of the world. The rest of the world that no longer needs to send in troops to maintain order, that benefits from the goods that can be produced while peace exists, that visits and learns about a fascinating culture without the distraction of bullets flying overhead.

So even though there is all kinds of bad out there (which is far easier to sell in the nightly news), there's also a great deal of good. We were fortunate enough to see both on our trip, though it was the good, that leaves the most lasting impression with me.



]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1167586560/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1167586560/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1167586560/tpod.html Mon, 19 Feb 2007 03:10:35 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Sydney, Australia

What can one say about Sydney... It's skyline is beautiful. It's architecture stunning. It's people fantastic.

As many of you know, given financial constraints, we were unable to really partake of Sydney the way we really wanted to (namely, getting blitzed with over one million other party goers on New Years Eve in Sydney Harbour). That being said, we were fortunate enough to meet up with one of Sydney's most eloquent and intelligent residents, who luckily for us, we met on our tour through Cambodia. For those not on our Cambodia trip (as most of you were probably not), this gentleman was Simon.

After leaving Brisbane, checking into our overpriced, though generally pleasant, hotel, we went on a bit of a self guided tour of the city, making it down to Darling Harbour. A lovely area of Sydney, it was at that point that I made the connection that Sydney was like a much larger (and warmer and less rainy) Vancouver.

So following a meander through Darling Harbour and about 15 minutes trying to figure out how to use the Australian payphones (really, why can't all phones be like those in Canada that provide something like two hours of talk time for a quarter?), we got a hold of Simon and agreed to meet at the famous Sydney Opera-house.

We met up with Simon (though were a bit late - sorry Simon!) and proceeded to take the obligatory pictures in front of the opera-house, behind the opera-house, beside the opera-house, though not IN the opera-house as that would require a costly tour. Instead, we all went for a beer, which is arguably also costly, though far more refreshing after running to an opera-house in attempt to somehow reverse time and not be late for a scheduled meeting.

So after a bit of refreshment we took in more of the sights of Sydney, Simon playing tour guide and provider of refreshments. Yes, our legs and livers got a good workout over the two days that we spent touring the city with Simon. The highlight of our tour came at the end of our second day in Sydney when we took and evening cruise through the famous Sydney harbour on the large harbour ferries (think more BC ferries rather than the little cockroaches that move through the inlets in Vancouver and Victoria). The Opera-house at night is absolutely stunning - hopefully the night-shots will turn out!

Our time in Sydney was great - especially due to our fabulous guide (and occasional sponsor) Simon. It was just a bit sad, or bittersweet if you will, that this was the last stop on our circumnavigation of the globe prior to our return to Canada (though won't it be nice to have to keep packing up my toothbrush every two or three nights!). Oh well - homeward bound!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1167093240/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1167093240/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1167093240/tpod.html Mon, 19 Feb 2007 02:54:53 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Brisbane, Australia

Christmas in 30+ degree Celsius weather.  Odd.

We arrived in Brisbane following a relatively painless bus journey (except for having to endure the film "Cheaper by the Dozen 2 - Cheap Harder") from Hervey Bay.  In the terminal, while frantically searching for Tania 's uncle's cell phone number, we were approached by a friendly man and his daughter - fortunately,  it was Tania's Uncle Michael and his daughter, Morgan Jane.  Nice to see that he was organized, as we weren't and had no idea where we had put his number!

We spent nearly a week in Brisbane, drinking Michael's beer, eating Mylene's (Tania's Aunt) wonderful food, and playing with Morgan Jane's toys (particularly liked the Super Soakers on Christmas morning).

Being away from home for so long, it was really nice to be able to spend Christmas with family.  And though we didn't get to stay as long as we would have liked, it was probably pretty good that we left as the clothes we bought at the beginning of the trip would not fit if we stayed any longer (beer and tasty food seems to do that...).

Thanks again to the "Keefes from Down Under"!  Look forward to seeing you in Vancouver one day!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166747460/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166747460/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166747460/tpod.html Mon, 19 Feb 2007 02:43:58 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Fraser Island, Australia

So when wee arrived to Hervey Bay, must say we were somewhat disappointed.  Rather than a fun and upbeat travelers haven like Airlie Beach, we had a small town, basically catering to retirees, and I didn't bring my lawn bowling shoes.

We also found out that rather than having a guided 4x4 tour of Fraser Island, we would be part of a group of 10 people, none of which had been to Fraser Island before.  Visions of stuck vans, arguments over where to go and how to get there (among many other expletives) were running through our heads.

But, after a quite thorough morning briefing, which included  a suggested Island itinerary, we were placed into a group comprised of 4 Canadians (including us), one Brit, 2 Germans   and 2 Danes .  Originally called "Group 3", Andrew (the Brit) actually suggested calling ourselves "Team Canada", just given the numbers.  After a vote, the team name was adopted, and we knew that the trip was going to be just fine.

A quick pack-up and frantic grocery shop later, we were driving onto a ferry, heading for the largest sand barge in the world.

It was gorgeous.

The island itself was made up of a beach running 150 odd kilometres on its Eastern side, a large trop ical rain forest and cliffs that managed to overlook the whole thing.  There were also freshwater lakes that you could a actually swim in as well (the whole jellyfish and shark thin g  kept you from going into the ocean...).

So we spent 3 days flying down the beaches and bouncing through rain forests in a 4x4 van, camping under the stars, lounging by the lakes  and looking out for dingoes (they tend to steal your beer i f you're not careful).  The beaches were beautiful (if not  also covered in jellyfish during low-tide) though what was m ost spectacular was hanging out with our great group under a  starlit sky, completely void of other light pollution.  Str angely, after a night of really appreciating the starlit sky (among other things like Aussie beer and goon), other members of our group were absent from my 4am ve nture  to catch the sunrise...

Anyway, a great time was had on Fraser.  Check it out if you 're in the area.  A again, to anyone that was part of Team C anada (or Team Germany, or Team Denmark), if you're ever hea ding to Vancouver, make sure to let us know!  
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165624620/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165624620/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165624620/tpod.html Tue, 19 Dec 2006 01:08:15 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

Follow, follow, follow, follow, follow the Ho Chi Minh Trail!

It's actually quite funny if you think of about 4 million Vietnamese on scooters zipping through the streets, singing the above in munchkin voices. At least we thought so when trying to get through all of them on our return from the Cuchi Tunnels today.

The Cuchi Tunnels were quite surreal. The tunnels themselves consist of a network of tunnels, about 250km in length, snaking under a Vietnamese forest, dug-out and used by the villagers in their aim to become "American Hero Killers;" supposedly a very high honour for the Vietnamese (I don't think the US had a "Vietnamese Hero Killer" medal though...). Crawling through the tunnels (fortunately not the entire 250km of them) was quite clausterphob-riffic. Other highlights of the Cuchi tunnel experience included:

- a guide who suggested taking pictures on a downed American tank
- a black and white film describing the resourcefulness of the Vietnamese "American Hero Killers" and the evilness of the "Crazy Bombing American Devils"
- the shooting range attached to the ice-cream stand

Yeah, the place was wierd. But really, that's about par for the course in Vietnam.

HCMC is made up of about 8 million people, 4 million of which own scooters that look like ants at high vantage points, and swarming attack vehicles while one is on the road. For the 4 million scooters (and cyclos, and cars, and vans, etc.) there are something like 4 traffic lights. Crossing the street is an interesting adventure. Basically you just walk. Slowly. You trust that the speeding drivers will see you, and adjust. It's really quite something - you kinda feel like Moses parting the Red Sea, as all the vehicles fly within inches of, though thankfully not over (ideally), you.

Other interesting bits about Vietnam:

- boat ride up the Mekong River to Vietnam from Cambodia was cool - though could not get the "Flight of the Valkyres" song out of my head...

- being doubled up the mountin on the back of a scooter in Chua Doc was quite a hair-raising experience. Fortunately a beer with the locals at the top of the hill, overlooking the Mekong Delta, helped settle the nerves.

- the "dance-off" at the tourist/expat filled "Apocalypse Now" bar is an event that will not be (though really should be) forgotten.

- Drinking Singapore Slings whilst overlooking the city at the Sheraton (thanks again Fauzia!!). Could have done without the rip-off attempts by our cyclo drivers...

- The water park - a great way to knock around your body so that you really get your 2 dollars worth during your hour-long massage from a blind masseuse
- the ease of making currency related jokes


I think that about covers it. Just wanted to give a big thanks again to our tour leader Sareun for being so great and for speaking to us so candidly regarding the history and current situation in Cambodia. Very enlightening.

Thanks again to the group, who also really made the trip. From the days on the busses (with improvised air conditioning), to bar-hopping in HCMC, to water-parking, to cyclo-touring, to enjoying a fine cocktail looking over the city or over a flamenco (???) band, we had a blast. Look forward to seeing more of you in the near (Sydney), and not so near (London) future!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166468160/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166468160/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166468160/tpod.html Mon, 18 Dec 2006 04:12:46 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Airlie Beach, Australia

Just got back from and absolutely fantastic 3 day/2 night sail through the Whitsunday Islands!

The trip was incredible. Having never really sailed before, this was quite an experience. Moving across the turquoise water and jumping from side to side of the boat as we changed direction, seeing incredible wildlife (turtles, fish in the coral, our group after copious amounts of beer and bagged wine), visiting a beach (Whitehaven) with the whitest and softest sand (like a mix of flour and icing sugar), and the amazingly clear night sky, made for probably the greatest way to spend 3 days in December (so how cold is it in Canada??). The snorkeling was simply breathtaking, especially as you always had to watch out for the infamous box and other poisonous jelly-fish. Lucky us, on this trip there were no fatalities! For our last night on the boat we even got the added adventure of having the latrine pump going - making for great male bonding on the front, and female bonding at the back, of the boat!

Anyway, the pics should speak for themselves. If any of you get the chance, try and get on the Eureka II boat here in Airlie Beach for a 2 night tour. Big thanks goes out to our fearless crew, Mat and Georgie (great sailing, teaching, food - the lasagna was particularly good, and pump-fixing skills), as well as the fabulous group on board - great time was had on and off (beaches...) the boat (so do we have any of you convinced to come to Vancouver yet?).
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166094000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166094000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1166094000/tpod.html Mon, 18 Dec 2006 03:44:35 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Cairns, Australia

Here for only a day and a half, we would have loved to stay for a week. If coming to Australia, make sure Cairns is on the list. From rain forest walks (and slides), to whitewater rafting, to skydiving, this place has it all. That, and it's the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef (GBF).

We flew into Cairns yesterday morning, and after a few phone calls, found a hostel that sounded like it had a fair price, and at that time most importantly, provided an airport pick-up!

Now we were quite tired again yesterday morning as we had yet another 4 hour night sleep the night before. We planned to be good and get to bed early to be rested for our 6am flight, but as we were in a dorm, we had to also take other guests into account. Most namely, a German named Max who brought back an "unregistered" guest at 1:30 in the morning...

Anyway...back to Cairns.

We got to Castaways (fantastic hostel) at about 10:30am and checked into our private room (we've learned our lesson). We wanted to sleep, but couldn't as flights needed to be booked for our celebrated return to Canada, and we needed to figure out our plan for Oz.

So we booked the flight, and then started talking with Lesley, the owner/operator of the hostel, which was also a tour agency. Lesley was fantastic (may have helped that she was from Nova Scotia) and set us up with tours of not only the GBF, but the Whitsunday and Fraser islands as well. The tours were a bit expensive - especially after dropping $4000 on tickets back to Canada (good bye "return to Canada" fund; hello Mr. Visa...), though the incremental costs of the tours over that of other accommodations, transportation and food (damn expensive here!) were pretty minimal, especially with Tania's magic Travel Agent card! So really, we had to do it (at least, that's what we tell ourselves...).

So we spent the rest of yesterday putting the finishing touches on tours, napping and hanging out by the pool with other hostel guests (who shall remain nameless to protect the guilty!).

Today, after a very hectic morning (forgot to move the time on the alarm ahead 30 minutes...a thirty minute time change...come on!), we got to the harbour and set off on our adventure on "Ocean Free" to the GBF.

The trip was awesome. The crew funny and very helpful. Brought us coffee and muffins in the morning (much needed as in our rush, we missed breakfast), explained how to best snorkel, and most importantly, led both Tania and myself on a fantastic first scuba dive! It really is quite amazing to see the life in the corral while down 10 metres under water. Even got to stick our hands in a massive, metre long, clam. We would both highly recommend going on this boat if heading out to the reef. Rather than having to deal with 300-odd tourists one one boat, joining about 1000 others all kicking around snorkeling in one place, our boat had about 20 people, and went out to an area where we were the only ones around. That and they played the new Chili Peppers album as we were sailing.

Fantastic day out on the GBF!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165947120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165947120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165947120/tpod.html Sun, 17 Dec 2006 23:50:17 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Darwin, Australia

OK,

So we're now sitting in an Internet Cafe in Darwin, trying (without a great deal of success) to try and keep our eyes open after flying in from Singapore at about 2:30 this morning. After a relatively painless time at customs (Australia Customs are VERY thorough, though still gentle, in their checks...) we got to our hostel at about 3:30am. Happily, the key for our room was out in an envelope as was previously arranged. Sadly, the room had not been made up after its previous occupants had left - meaning a full garbage can and sheets that appeared to be harbouring some of the creepy-crawly fugitives that the customs people were so worried about sneaking into the country. A phone call to the hostel's emergency number did not yield any results, so as we were so tired and beyond much reasoning, we laid down our sleep sheets on the sheet-deprived mattress and fell asleep for a few hours.

Got up around 9am this morning, complained to the front desk, and left the hostel, not all that rested (the 4 hours on the creepy-crawly bed just didn't cut it). We then spent the rest of the morning sitting at the Flight Centre in Darwin, trying to figure out how we were going to get to Brisbane for Christmas, as well as see some of the small Aussie sights like that reef thing and opera house place.

We also need flights back to Canada, and strangely, all those that were available with British Airways to be booked with points seem to be booked-up... Looks like a job for Super-Visa!

So that takes us right-up-to-the-minute, with us typing/falling asleep at the keyboard while the lovely Amy at the Darwin Flight Centre is trying to get us home (insert Buble-esque line here).

OK, time to load some photos and finish writing about Vietnam. And for all those lovely Aussies that we met along our travels and that offered up accommodations (or sheesha parties...), expect some calls soon...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165276380/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165276380/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165276380/tpod.html Thu, 14 Dec 2006 08:35:30 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Phnom Penh, Cambodia

As today has been one of the heaviest days of this entire trip, ranking right up there as one of the heaviest days of my life, don't expect that this blog entry be all that uplifting. Actually, it's depressing. Actually, some of it is downright disgusting.

That being said, if you are ever in this part of the world, this city, along with the Genocide museum and Killing Fields, is a must. I just hope that we as a human race can learn from the attrocities that happened here. Given what's happening in Darfur and some other nations at the moment, sometimes I'm not so sure...

For those not familiar with what has been happening here in Cambodia over the last 40 years (to which I am now much more, if not still pretty limitedly, informed), here is a very non-thorough, though hopefully mostly accurate (I'm sure Tania will correct me later...), summary:

In 1953 Cambodia gets independence from France and then in the 60's, the king abdicates, putting his father in his kingly seat. The king then becomes the country's communist Prime Minister. This PM cuts relations with the US (and all their aid), making North Vietnam happy, but strangely, annoying the hell out of America. As Vietnam is a bit of a hot spot with the US and as Cambodia is harbouring North Vietnamese soldiers, the US illegally bombs Cambodia (illegal because the US was never at war with Cambodia).

Being tired of constant bombardment by the US, a military general by the name of Lon Nol, with US aid, stages a coup in 1970, and things start getting even more ugly.

Cambodia now has a bunch of left wingers - those loyal to the ousted PM and guys living in the jungle (Khmer Rouge) following the fanatical Pol Pot (not his real name, but this will already go on beyond many attention spans so I'll try keep it somewhat limited) - that decide to get together to fight a common enemy, Lon Nol.

One bloody civil war later, in 1975, the Lon Nol government was ousted, and Pol Pot became supreme ruler. There was dancing in the street and joyous celebration as people were genuinely happy to get rid leader that had just been a puppet of the US. Within two hours, things started going to hell.

Pol Pot was a fanatical communist (learned about it in France - go figure) who thought it would be great to go back to a simpler time when everyone worked out in the fields. He wanted to create a country that was purely based on farming. A utopian agrarian society with no need for fancy buildings and fast cars. A land with no classes, where everyone was happy (read: under his control) and equal. Many of you know may know where this is going.

Within 2 hours of seizing power, Pol Pot began emptying the major centres. Everyone was told that it would only be for a few days so that any residual traitors could be found, and that the US wouldn't be happy with the regime change and would show its chagrin by bombing the cities. So all people, including the monks, young children and the hospitalized, were forced to march out of town for about 100km. Those that stopped were shot. Those that died along the way, were trampled over by others.

Meetings were then held within the villges that people were marched to, where it was asked who among them were teachers, architects, engineers, doctors, etc. - basically all the intellectuals; "As we want to rebuild society from zero, you people are vitally important."

Many people came forward, were congratulated and thanked for doing so. These people were then taken away to "start their work." That night, was the first deposit in the Killing Fields was made.

After this, more thourough checks took place. People wearing glasses were taken to detention centres. As were those with soft hands. As were those with light skin. Members of the Lon Nol government, public servants, police, military officers, teachers, ethnic Vietnamese, Christians, Muslims, Buddists, members of the middle-class and the educated were taken and executed. Between 1975 and 1979, Cambodia's population of 7 million was taken down to 4 - Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge was responsible for the murder of 3 million of the country's best and brightest people. He couldn't have anyone smart enough in the country to thwart his plans.

To carry out these attrocities, the Khmer Rouge took children (12-20 years old) from detention centres, told them that their parents were living happily elsewhere, and forced them to become soldiers, promising them more food and a better life. Every year, new soldiers were recruited. Their first job, kill the soldiers (children) from the year before...can't have them knowing too much.

Schools were turned into detention prisons, and Killing Fields were turning up everywhere to make room for their new inhabitants. People tortured in the most inhumane ways, all to get information on others that were the least bit educated, or those that may have harboured any ill-will towards the Khmer Rouge. Some torture involved threatening mothers to have their babies beaten against tress, or having one's face cut at the neck with a spade and then ripped off. After, or sometimes during death, people were ripped apart for anything of use (gall bladders sold to the Chinese, who strangely also armed Pol Pot and had the only embassy in Pnom Penh...). Our guide at the Killing Fields lost 5 in his immediate family of 13 during this terror.

So all this kept going until about 1979 when the Vietnamese came in and took control of things. It seemed that their brand of Communism (Soviet) was prefered to the that under the Khmer Rouge (Chinese). The problem was that the rest of the world didn't like the Vietnamese all that much, so Pol Pot was still officially recognized by the international community, including the UN, as the leader of Cambodia. So, now we have another civil war from 1980 to 1989, when the Viatnamese withdrew from Cambodia. As this happened, support for the Khmer Rouge by the West ended and that regime fell.

Skip to 1993 - fair elections were held (lots of international observers)

Skip to 1998 - not-so-fair elections held (no observers).

Skip to now.

Government is corrupt. Doctors need bribes to look at a patient. Police are hired if they pay a bribe to be (about $500), which they work back by "fining" people for crimes. About 1/2, if not less, of foreign aid is actually getting to its itended projects. The rest lines government pockets. Opposition party members occassionaly go missing when speaking out against the governing, "fairly" elected party. This coupled with 4-6 million landmines scattered across the various borders Cambodia has, leaves the country in a bit of a pickle. It also doesn't help that many within the current government were members of the Khmer Rouge.

Well, that should be enough to give you nighmares for a while.

Itss quite amazing though, even with all of the injustices that the Cambodians have suffered, all of them that we met seemed genuinely happy and optmistic. I asked our guide, Sareun (absolutely fantastic guide, by the way), about this and he enlightened me with his response.

He said that it was pointless getting too upset with the situation as it does no good anyway, and would drive you crazy if you did so. If people were to try and take revenge against those who were known to be part of the Khmer Rouge, where would it stop? "We are happy to be living in peace."

How very Buddhist.

So with all that nasty history, with all the current corruption, the Cambodians are generally optimistic, hoping, and believing that that their situation will get better.

So, I really do encourage any of you thinking about it to come to this country and take a look. It really has been fascinating in both good and bad ways. If and when you come, take the time to get out to Beat Richner's children's hospital an give blood or money (or both). Visit a school and give them some supplies. Try and stay at "local" hotels rather than chains as that does feed more of the local economy (most of the foreign hotels have the money funnelled straight out as there seem to be a lack of tax laws in Cambodia). Frequent restaurants ("Friends" is a great one in Pnom Penh) whose profits are used to run programs to make life better for the children of Cambodia.

Enough of my ramblings and the history lesson - it's time to take a trip up the Mekong.



]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165004100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165004100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bradman/worldtour-2006/1165004100/tpod.html Thu, 14 Dec 2006 07:59:49 -0500 The Adventures of Bradman

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Siem Reap, Cambodia

You know it's interesting. After suffering from foreign invasion, a psychotic plan to create a utopian agrarian society, and a civil war, now Cambodia's border with Thailand is not littered with landmines, but casinos - which are arguably better as they are less indiscriminate in choosing their victims.

It's also interesting that when traveling from the Thai border to Cambodia's Siem Reap (translation: Siamese Defeat), the 150km road takes approximately 5 hours to drive. Supposedly a known airline has been providing "donations" to Cambodian government officials in efforts to keep the road from being properly paved, so that now it is endearingly refered to as "the boulevard of broken backsides." I can attest to the appropriateness of said name.

After a rough, though pleasantly air-conditioned (we're on the "Original" rather than the "Basix" tour this time!), bus ride, we arrived to our hotel in Siem Reap, astounded by the dichotomy in the beautiful and clean city we were in from the dusty and destitute looking countryside and villages we rode through to get there. You can tell that a lot of investment has been going into Siem Reap, with even more flowing into the city in the form of more hotels and tourist facilities. Great (and cheap!!) restaurants and bars, the pub street is great fun to walk around. Hopefully all the investment will find a way to spread out to more of the outlying areas.

Our own hotel, the Freedom Temple, was quite nice. A big air-conditioned room complete with soaker tub, along with a nice pool just downstairs (which I was informed cost about $20) was a great place to start our adventures in a town that boasts one of the short-listed seven wonders of the world (and the only one that was featured in Angelintastic Tomb Raider).

Angkor Wat, along with the other Wats, are a photo junkies heaven. The place is astounding. The ruins are incredible, and the fact that you can just wander around them at your leisure incredible. That being said, our guide was quite good and I would definitely suggest having one as you'll gain a greater understanding of what you're looking at (and taking pictures of). It would be impossible to see all of the Wats (temples) in just a few days, so we focused on Angkor (City) Wat, Angkor Thom, and the Brroom (Jungle) Temple (the one used in Tomb Raider).

Built in the 12th century, and surviving the 20th, this place is just incredible. More interesting, and less pretentious than a museum, this place is a must see before you die!

While in Siem Reap we also went on a boat trip to see a floating village. As strange as it sounds, the village is made up of little huts, as well as larger school houses that are on barrels and bamboo, keeping them afloat throughout the year. They even move locations during the high and low water seasons. The night before the group went on a shopping spree at a stationary store so had a great time of handing out pencils, books and such to all the local, mostly Vietnamese, school-kids.

The same evening about half of the group (including Tania and myself) headed to a private childrens hospital, operated by a Swiss gentleman, which admits any child under the age of 13 free of charge, to donate blood. Before anyone freaks out, the place was incredibly clean and the needles were all new.

The hospital is really quite incredible. Between the one in siem Reap and the one in Phnom Pen, 85% of the children in Cambodia have visited it. As the government hospitals often require palms to be greased before someone is even looked at, the Kantha Bopha children's hospital provides children with essential, life saving, treatment, free of payment and corrunption.

Some alarming stats we found out while at the hospital, and at the free cello concert provided by Dr. Beat Richner (the founder):

- 65% of the Cambodian population suffers from tuberculosis, mainly due to the last 30 years of war (the base of which was brough from the outside - Vietnam war)

- 7% of blood doated is HIV positive

- 16% of the blood donated is positive for Hepatitis

- drugs used here for the treatment of Malaria are on the World Health Organization's (WHO) Essential Drug list, though are outlawed for use in the US, France, Switzerland and most of the western world. It seems that the drug causes some fatal liver problems as a side effect. But, it's 20 times cheaper than the stuff we use. So there you go.

It seems that the good doctor often comes into trouble with the WHO as he believes that treatment should be of high standards, even if you're from a poor country. Now that's just crazy!

For anyone coming to Siem Reap, I strongly suggest checking this hospital out and attending the free concert put on by Dr. Beat Richner. Very eye opening, and very rewarding.

On to Phnom Pen.
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