TravelStream™ news feed for member bastin79 on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/bastin79 en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Mon, 01 Sep 2008 10:05:32 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1220277840/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1220277840/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1220277840/tpod.html Mon, 01 Sep 2008 10:05:32 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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London, England, United Kingdom

Will complete the journey with talk of Western Europe, cricket and the triumphant return to gloomy London. Also will get the photos up from Moscow. Was having tech issues.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1217826780/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1217826780/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1217826780/tpod.html Sun, 17 Aug 2008 08:56:39 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Ulan Bator, Mongolia

A calm early morning Beijing aids my walk to the subway station and line 2 carries me to Beijing's main station, the departure point of the train to Mongolia. After clearing the tight security, I meet my contact with the tickets and a good luck. With luggage stowed, I meet my cabin mates, a German couple called Raphael and Ann-Marie. The long train pulls slowly out into the hazy Beijing suburbs.We are soon out into the countryside around Beijing, getting steadily drier as we move north. The train crosses the Great Wall at Zhangjiakou on the edge of Inner Mongolia. At this point the wall is less well repaired, sometimes disappearing entirely when it reaches the valley floors. Hundreds of tiny villages slip by, each one less developed than the last. The day flashes by with the scenery, chatting away with my cabin mates.After dinner in the functional Chinese dining car, we pull into the border point between China and Mongolia. In the gloom, a stream of Chinese border guards start the laborious task of checking papers and baggage. Satisfied, they allow us off the train to relax while bogeys are changed. The railway lines are different gauges in China and Mongolia, so the train disappears off to get some new undercarriage. A couple of hours later we are set to move over the border and repeat the paperwork checks and baggage inspection. Finally complete, we settle down for the night time journey across the Gobi desert.Waking with the intense sunshine of the Gobi, we realise leaving the window open for ventilation was a mistake in hindsight. A thin layer of sand covers much of the cabin, and my hair seems to contain enough of the stuff to start a business. Tidied up, I try the food in the new Mongolian dining car. Less variety than the Chinese equivalent, but much better decor. The rest of the morning flies past with reading and chatting. The arid landscape of the Gobi gradually gives over to the mountainous grassy plains of the Mongolian Steppes. Almost looping back on ourselves numerous times, we climb to the Mongolian capital of Ulan Baatar.After saying goodbye to Rafael and Ann-Marie, I meet my guide for the next three days, Choka. First a tour of some of Ulan Baatar's sights. Gandan Monestary was the only Buddhist centre to survive the communist purges of the 1930's. Choka points out this is principally because the Soviet cavalry used the massive buildings to keep their horses. Next we go to Sukhbaatar Square, sort of like a small Tian'anmen Square, with a big statue of Chinggis Khan sitting in front of the parliament building. Finally we head out of the city centre to the Zaisan Hill Memorial. The Soviets built it to commemorate their dead. A giant stone soldier stares out across the valley that holds half of Mongolia's population.With the tour complete, we push through the dense traffic to the east. Soon enough we are out into the rolling plains that make up much of Mongolia. A rough single lane road carries everything east. We stop. The company's other car has broken down so time for a tow. We race off, occasionally jolting sideways as the car behind slams on the brakes. Then onto dirt roads for the last section, throwing up great clouds of dust. Beyond a final hill emerges the ger (tent) camp I will be staying in.A ger is the traditional home of the Mongolians. Made from felt and cloth over a circular wooden frame, it can be constructed in less than an hour and a half. I have one to myself and a very comfortable bed. After a shower and some dinner, I make the most of an early night.After eating breakfast with Choka the next morning we walk about 2 km to visit a Mongolian family. They are engaged in the tricky task of separating the flocks of goats from 3 different families nearby. Charging around, the goats evade their efforts for a while until the experienced hands manage to bring order. The mother of the family invites Choka and me into their ger for some mid-morning fermented mare's milk, airag (pronounced 'eric'). Traditionally you stand up and sing a folk song before drinking and passing the vessel on. I get up and sing a nursery rhyme before drinking. Tastes like very sour natural yoghurt. Back to the camp and after lunch, Choka and I walk over to the next valley. On the far side lies a new statue of Chinggis Khan. Huge and made from aluminum, it definitely makes an impression. Then back to the camp for dinner and some cards and local games. One is particularly fun, flicking sheeps ankle bones around on a felt cloth. The stars shine bright as I head to bed. Back to Ulan Baatar for the train to Moscow tomorrow.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1218550980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1218550980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1218550980/tpod.html Sat, 16 Aug 2008 17:53:05 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Moscow, Central Russia, Russian Federation

Warm morning rays bathe the grassy plain which hosts the ger camp. Another good breakfast and into a minibus into Ulan Baatar with four other people catching the train to Mongolia. The next few hours are spent doing chores. Choka shows me to the post office, a money changer and a supermarket for supplies. All prepared, we head to Ulan Baatar station and the waiting train 5 to Moscow. I say goodbye to Choka, letting him begin his two days off watching the Olympics, then stow my gear in the four berth compartment.The train heaves and lurches at first, a merchant train save for some foreign interlopers. As we cruise towards the Russian border, I get to know my cabin mates. Elina and David both have been teaching English in Japan, now heading home to the States via Europe. Elina lived in Kazakhstan until she was 13 so speaks Russian, a very useful skill in coming days. In the other berth, Aoife is heading back to Ireland after teaching in China. Next door, Danny and Amy are both heading back to the UK after teaching in Japan and China respectively. Acquainted, we settle into the important train activities of reading, crosswords and playing cards. As evening draws in, we head to the dining car for some Mongolian morsels.Everything comes to a stop at the Mongolian/Russian border. A much more intensive baggage examination is engaged in here than from China to Mongolia. After two hours with the Mongolian authorities, the Russians begin an exhaustive search, focusing especially on the local merchants. The conductors are in on the game too, having hidden 1500 pure camel hair blankets, one under each passengers bed sheets. After five hours having various searches carried out, we finally pull over the border into the Russian Federation. Nothing appears to have been removed, which is surprising given the exhibitions of pure capitalism we will witness in the coming days.After a few hours sleep, Elina, Aoife, Danny and I head for breakfast in the newly attached Russian dining car. We are greeted by a large, flame-haired woman, our waitress and information source in the coming days, and one of the few staff members to smile. Excellent ham and eggs with dark coffee and bread. At the end, Danny attracts the attention of a Mongolian trying to drink his way to Moscow. We retreat to our cabins to avoid more of a scene, and settle down for the day.Russia drifts by gradually becoming more green and European in appearance. At each stop, we get out for a stroll and resupply on water and snacks. The scene awaiting us depends very much on local circumstances. In some towns, the local police keep people away from the platform, the merchants throwing dagger looks at the loss of trade. At more liberal towns, the crowds stand waiting for the unofficial traveling market. Haggling becomes more and more frantic as departure time approaches. Then the jeans, blankets, t-shirts, mannequins and everything else magically disappears back onboard. Our friendly waitress tells us she has seen some of the younger sellers grow up on the train, from babes in arms to cutthroat teenage traders.Along the route, the highlight include the glistening blue Baikal (the largest lake in the world, containing one fifth of Earth's freshwater) and the Ural mountains. Besides these are the countless towns that break up the vast expanses of the world's largest country. Four days goes surprisingly quickly, as the trading display and good conversation make the 6000+ kilometers fly by. On the last night, we have a few celebratory vodkas and play cards with two American sisters, Julie and Pamela. A group of Mongolian merchants are celebrating too by continuing their drinking from the last four days. A timely exit again as things start getting a little heated again.After a quiet morning, we pull into the Moscow terminal bathed in bright sunshine. The company we are traveling with have sent a driver, and soon we are off through the crowded Moscow streets to our hotel in a quiet northern surburb. A few hours to recuperate, have showers and catch up on the news of the Russian/Georgian conflict before we all meet up and catch the metro into the centre of town. One of Elina's school friends now lives in Moscow and gives a a tour of the the centre, after some dinner. The highlight is Red Square, lit up by the fairy lights on the GUM department store, with the unmistakable St. Basil's Cathedral and Stalin's red stars marking out the corners of the Kremlin.In the morning, after an excellent breakfast, I head into the centre. First off I sort out some ballet tickets for that evening at the theatre next to the Bolshoi. Then back over to Red Square and into St. Basil's. The structure holds a series of interconnecting chapels, each with ornate decorations and painted panels. As I pass the central chamber, a male voice choir sings a hymn, the sound resonating up to the dome above. A wonderful experience. After more exploring, I head down to the river, wandering past the statue of Peter the Great and the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour with its giant golden domes. Then further south to meet up with the others for lunch and a look round the Tretyakov Gallery. A vast collection of Russian (pre 1917) art, the highlight being the best collection of icons on the planet.A fond farewell to Elina and David heading to St. Petersburg that night, before Aoife, Danny, Amy and I go to the ballet. The Moscow City Ballet are holding a summer season, and tonight they present 'Giselle'. Excellent performance to a sold out theatre. After some dinner, we wearily make our way back to the hotel. A very long day.I check out the next morning and head into town, exploring the area of Arbat to the west of the Kremlin. Then down to the river and over to the New Tretyakov gallery. This huge collection shows mostly Soviet art of the 20th century, including several Kandinsky's. Thoroughly galleried out, I say goodbye to Aoife and get back to the hotel for my bags. Overnight train to Warsaw is next.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1217326140/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1217326140/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1217326140/tpod.html Mon, 04 Aug 2008 08:02:48 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Beijing, China

A final chapter beginning is the feel to my last day in Seoul. First job is a trip to the local post office and the small matter of posting my armour and various other items back to the UK. The look of surprise on the post lady's face is worth the cost of sending 16kg back to Blighty. With that job done, Jingu's mum and I head back to the flat for a coffee. All packed up, she accompanies me to the tube station and bids farewell. A wonderful hostess the last three weeks. The subway train trundles to Gimpo airport allowing me to catch the express train out to Incheon airport, the venue for my flight the next day. After confirming everything is go for Beijing, I settle into a hotel nearby for what turns out to be a shocking night's sleep. A little dazed, I head to the airport the next morning and board my Korean Airlines flight to the Chinese capital. Landing after a deluge, the Beijing air feels fresher than I expected. Customs proves much less tiresome than the last time and before I know it, I am racing through the suburbs on a shiny new airport express train. The equally new subway system carries me round to Hepingmen station and my hostel for the next week. First port of call after checking in, is the company I am traveling with on the Trans-Mongolian Railway next week. Based in the Sanlitun tourist and embassy enclave east of the city centre, they confirm everything is set for my journey. A spot of celebratory lunch and back to the hotel for some sleep after the previous night's tossing and turning. Refreshed the next morning, I ride another new subway line out to the Olympic Green to the north of the city centre. In a week, the focus of the world turns to this expanse of modern wonders. Although not open to the public yet, large crowds gather taking picture of the breathtaking Bird's Nest Stadium and the equally impressive aquatic centre, covered in bubbles. The site is immense and a sign of the scale is a convoy of unstopping coaches racing past. Full of volunteers, there must have been at least 200 waved through the red traffic lights. Further round the site, a column of soldiers dressed in Beijing volunteer tops, file past at least a few thousand in number. Beijing definitely seems well prepared. After a morning seeing Beijing's new face to the world, I board another brand new subway line to one of its classic old retreats, the Summer Palace to the north west of the city centre. The vast lake makes a cool break from the searing heat of the middle of town. The summer home to many emperors, it was most famous as the playground of the Empress Dowager Ci'xi, known for her excesses in the face of China's decline at the end of the 19th century. The highlight beyond the lake are the palaces and temples on Wanshou Shan (Longevity Hill). A beautiful view looking back to the haze hidden masses of the city centre. A short walk from the hostel is Qianmen and the southern limit of Beijing's geographical and spiritual heart. The vast expanse of Tian'anmen Square is bordered by great buildings of communism, the Great Hall of the People and the National Museum of History, with its ever changing collection to suit the current party line on history. At the north is the much older statement of power, the immense red walls of the Forbidden City. With 800 buildings, it makes for a day's entertainment, heading though buildings with names like 'Hall of Supreme Harmony' and 'Palace of Heavenly Purity'. I won't try to describe every last detail but suffice to say definitely worth a look if you are in the area. I finish the day with a walk to the top of Jianshan Park, giving a beautiful view back across the Imperial yellow roofs.Up early and out on a minibus the next day to the other big draw in this part of the world, the Great Wall. The section I am walking on is a bit further from Beijing and proves to be almost deserted. Stating at Jinshanling, I walk with 3 other English travelers, Harry, Haley and Sarah. Aside from the occasional souvenir hawker, we are left to admire the staggering scenery. The wall snakes along the mountain tops to the next stop of Simatai. Dramatic drops and immense staircases are not for the vertigo sufferers, but the view across the rolling peaks makes it one of the highlights of the trip so far. Back in the city, I have a day on Saturday seeing the modern side of Beijing. Heading to Chongwenmen, I walk through the mercifully air conditioned malls, the temple for the 21st century Beijing resident. After finding a pair of trainers for the rapidly approaching cricket tour in France, I walk to the ancient Imperial Observatory to the east of the city centre. Originally founded by the Kublai Khan, it was an active observatory until the 1920's, lead by a Jesuit mission from the early 17th century. A series of the old instruments stand on the roof, and a small exhibition in the garden highlights significant moments in the observatory's history. Scorching sunshine accompanies my trip the next day to the Yonghe Dong temple. This is the centre of Tibetan Buddhism in the capital and acts as both a centre of worship and a propaganda exercise. Originally the home of a prince, it has been a Lamasery since 1744, and includes the largest wooden statue (from a single tree) in the world, all 18m of the Maitreya Buddha. Walking south, I reach the most important temple in Beijing, the Temple of Heaven or Tiantan. Completed in 1420, this is seen as the high point of Ming architecture and was where emperors would sacrifice animals for the coming year's harvest. It was forbidden for locals to see the imperial procession so the whole city had to lock their doors and windows at this time. Done with exploring, the next day is preparation for the long train ride to come. Up early tomorrow bound for Mongolia.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1216446240/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1216446240/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1216446240/tpod.html Tue, 29 Jul 2008 07:31:37 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Seoul, Korea Rep.

A slow start to the week after the weekend's excesses, I head over towards Yonsei for lunch and practice. Today's practice is under the watchful eye of the 84 year old founder of the club, Mr Li. After the weekend's competition, he seems intent on coaching the coaches. The students find this all very amusing. After practice, I head out for a spot of dinner with one of the seniors and her friend. Donkatsu down the road from Yonsei. Tuesday is a hot one. I meet Jingu's friend, Hiyoni, and another friend and we head to the Mapo-gu area for a walk and lunch. It is similar to many other parts of Seoul, but has some of the more popular hangouts tucked down its side streets. We stop for a bite and coffee at a very plush place, stepping stones over water lead our way through the garden. Then back to Yonsei to practice in what can only be described as a cauldron. Seoul's weather changes again to unsettled. Mother and I meet her sisters at the National Cemetery on the south bank of the Hangang River. Climbing up the hill, rows of neat graves have alternating yellow and red flowers laid. At the top sit the memorials to President Park and Generals (generally). The rain continues to flow as we stomp back down the hill. We grab a cab to the Sadang area and drink coffee watching the rain. In the afternoon, back to Yonsei for the daily session. Hot again, I move focus to the area south of Namsam called Yongsan. This is a very popular shopping and entertainment centre, and seems to contain the highest density of foreigners too. I skip the mall/station and walk to the large park to the east. Under the towering mass of Namsam, the vast National Museum sits. About 100m by 60m and spread over 3 floors, it presents a comprehensive history of Korean culture through artifacts from across the country. Well worth a visit. Guess where in the afternoon for another practice. After practice, a group of us go out for a snack and some beer. Good bunch. Then back to Mullae. A day trip beckons, with Sin-jan and me meeting up at Yonsei before heading to his home. Borrowing his family's car, we drive out of Seoul north towards the border with North Korea. A city called Paju sits facing across the Imjim river to the farms and villages of the northern neighbour. Back into town for kumdo in the afternoon. Storms hit Seoul over the weekend, disrupting any plans to see more of the city. On Saturday night, Jingu's brother, Hyung, a friend (Gemin) and me head out locally to catch a film and some pizza. Both work for one of the giants of Korean industry, LG. The rain never ceases as we run from place to place. A new week begins with a slightly brighter forecast. I explore the area near Ewha University, full of little boutiques and malls. Then to Yonsei in the afternoon. Showers persist but nothing troubling. Tuesday brings a trip on a bus to COEX with Jingu's mum. After lunch with family we pop into the huge complex near the World Finance Centre. A large aquarium sits in the basement and we proceed round the excellent collection of aquatic creatures. The school holidays began yesterday, so hordes of children scream in delight at the shows, crocodiling their way through the tanks. Then back on the subway to Sinchon for the afternoon practice. The rest of the week proceeds in a similar fashion. Exploring an area, before heading to kumdo in the afternoon. One day I return to the centre of town and take some photos around Jongmyo and the royal palace nearby. Friday night brings the return of Jingu and the start of my last weekend in town. On Saturday, we go to the local shopping centre to get some supplies and pick out a new suit for Jingu to look the part at Asiana Airlines. Then Jingu and I head to Yonsei for a practice together at the weekly alumni session. Just before we are to finally practice together, a bad cramp strikes Jingu. Never mind, next time. In the evening, we head out with his high school friends for BBQ duck at a famous restaurant. Then karaoke till the wee hours, but thankfully slightly more restrained than last time so no threat of hangovers. My last full day in Seoul, Jingu, his girlfriend, Heyin, and I go down to the river and Yeuido Park. Dragonflies buzz everywhere as we stroll in the shadow of one of Seoul's main skyscraper districts. Reaching the 63 building, the tallest in Seoul, we stroll round the base before entering one of its attractions, Seaworld. Another great aquarium. Then dinner in Sindorim before I head back to pack. Incheon tomorrow ready for my last flight to Beijing.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1215524460/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1215524460/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1215524460/tpod.html Tue, 29 Jul 2008 07:28:57 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Seoul, Korea Rep.

A scorcher awaits a trip with Won to the ancient Korean capital of Gyoenju. Out to the end of the subway and onto an express bus east. In the searing sunshine, we hop on a local bus through the low built city to Bulguksa shrine, the most important in town. A series of grand traditional Korean buildings set in gardens and built on the side of a hill. Back onto the bus we head back into the centre of town and grab lunch at a Korean place near the station. After lunch, we hire bikes and cruise through the streets of Gyoenju. First stop are the Hwangman-ri Gohungun tombs. These are the largest mounded tombs in the city and are similar to the great barrows you get at sites in the east of England. One of the tombs has been half hollowed out so you can look inside and see the structure. Back on the bikes, we head to a large park that contains the remains of the oldest observatory in Asia, called Cheomseongdae. Up on top of the hill, you can poke your head into a vast ice store. Then back down to an ancient royal university. Peddling away, we reach the Anapji lake, with a large complex of palaces for the retainers of the royal family. Only a few of the buildings have been reconstructed, but you get a sense of what it would have looked like. Final stop is the Gyoenju Museum, the highlight being the grand bell in the courtyard. Back to the station and on a bus back to Busan. In the evening, we head to the Jagalchi area by the docks, home to the Busan fishing fleet and a huge market. A series of escalators take you up the hill to an observation deck overlooking Busan's centre. Then back down into the heart of the market, rows of dried and live fish from around SE Asia. Tired and hungry, we proceed to a restaurant serving a local speciality of whole boiled chicken in broth. It is traditionally eaten twice a year to sustain people through the long, hot summers. Thoroughly sustained, I bid farewell to Won and head back to the hostel. Monday is a day for chores. Laundry, letters and posting things. In the evening I have dinner locally and pack up ready for the train to Seoul in the morning. Another bright day helps me on the way to Busan station and the KTX express train to Seoul. An easy journey across the heart of Korea. Off the train I am met by my friend Jingu's mum and two of his friends, Sin-jan and Kim. Into a taxi and over to Jingu's mum's flat for lunch. We spend the afternoon chatting before a cousin and aunt arrive. Jingu's mum doesn't speak any English so the English speakers are welcome to help conversation. With it getting late, people depart and I settle into my room for the next few weeks. The focus of Seoul is practicing kumdo (the Korean word for kendo) at Jingu and Kim's university, Yonsei. I head over in the morning, laden with my gear and drop it off ready for practice that evening. I meet Kim and Sin-jan and we catch a bus to the Insadong area near the city centre. Full of shops selling arts and crafts, this is the artistic centre of Seoul with an atmosphere similar to Soho's. After strolling through the streets and some lunch, we walk to the royal shrine of Jongmyo. Traditional Korean buildings contain the sacred spirit stones of generations of the Korean royal family. A beautiful park acts as this shrine's host, a wonderful respite from the sweltering heat in Seoul's concrete jungle. Out to the north is the royal palace of Changgyeonggung. More traditional buildings in a dignified setting. Thoroughly walked out, we head back to Yonsei for a snack and then my first kumdo practice. A few beers afterwards before riding the subway back to Mullae. Up early the next day, I am greeted by a veritable banquet for breakfast. Korean hospitality is humbling and for someone used to being alone for the last year, it sometimes as a shock. Well and truly prepared for the day, I catch the subway into the centre of town to Deoksugung royal palace near the city hall. This was the residence of various princes over the years but has also been used for summits and hosting foreign dignatries in the nineteenth building at the back of the site. After a walk in the centre, I head back to Yonsei for the afternoon practice. Then home to Mullae for another feed fit fo a king. Next morning I head to the Hapjeong area by the Hangang river. The focus of this area is the Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine dedicated to the countless Catholics that died in the purge of 1866. A touch morbid compared to your usual memorial with references to the Hangang running red with blood. A peaceful garden faces out across the river to the domed National Assembly building on the far bank. Away from the river, Hapjeong is a fairly pleasant place. The main road is a little concrete heavy, but there are some pretty relaxed side streets with good bars and restaurants, including one that looks like a Czech town hall. In the evening, after another two hours of practice at Yonsei, I head back to Mullae for Jingu's return. That evening we head out for some food with his brother and two cousins. Then a spot of karaoke. Up at a reasonable time after the previous nights vocalities, Jingu and I head to the large mountainous park in the centre of Seoul called Namsam. After a hike up to the top, the heavens open and become trapped under one of Seoul's great landmarks, the Seoul Tower. A coffee and catch up help us see out the storm. Back down the hill, we grab a snack before catching the subway to the Gimpo area where Jingu went to high school. Meeting up with some of his high school friends, we start with pool before moving on for dinner and a large amount of shochu. The meal is a local speciality, stewed cow's spinal column. Tasty. After another beer or five at another two pubs, Jingu and I finally catch a cab back to Mullae. Out early but feeling the 4am finish, we make for the Olympic Gymnastics venue in the east of town. This is the venue of the annual Korean Kumdo championships for social members. Yonsei have a number of teams entered, so we cheer on through the hangover. Competition over and Jingu leaving back to his course, I get back to Mullae and a very early night. Kumdo and exploring the order of next week.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1214914320/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1214914320/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1214914320/tpod.html Thu, 10 Jul 2008 11:28:11 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Busan, Korea Rep.

Last few days in Japan begin with the weekly trip to Chiba and practice at the Tokyo University of Science. Down to the canteen for the last meal with Ozawa-sensei's students and then the long ride back into town. After a quick stop off in Suidobashi to go to a kendo shop, I head back to Nakano for a wash and brush up. Over to Futako-tamagawa and an Okinawan restaurant with Noriko. The food is quite different to other Japanese cuisines, dominated by seafood and pork. Pigs ears salad and sea grapes (a type of seaweed) are delicacies, along with the local version of shochu. The chef brings out some of the things his mother gave him recently, direct from Okinawa. Very kind and delicious. Up early for morning practice at Iidabashi and then breakfast with the students from that campus. More people saying they will come to London and practice. After dropping my equipment off in Nakano, I head west to the town of Mitaka to look round their gallery. An interesting if small collection of Japanese modern art. Back into Tokyo, I head to the park north of the Imperial Palace and into the Science Museum. Although it is undergoing some renovation, the permanent displays are really innovative, covering the life sciences, materials, space, etc. After a couple of hours playing with the exhibits, I head back to Nakano. My last practice in Japan for the time being. Afterwards, I head out to a local bar with some of the guys to grab some yakitori and beer. Another early start and off to Jiyogaoka to meet up with Noriko. We hop on a train bound for Japan's second city of Yokohama. Lunch and a wander proceed the day's main aim, a baseball game at Yokohama Stadium between the home Baystars and the Dragons. A very close game won by the home side, thanks mainly to back to back home runs in the first inning. Lots of happy fans as we walked up to Chinatown for dinner. A great day ends with a stroll by Yokohama Bay, the lights of this friendly city twinkling in the calm water. Sunday morning brings Nakano's annual team kendo competition at the local sports centre. Koboukan have a ladies team and two open teams entered, with Gibbo as taisho on the first team. A great event to see lots of good kendo, and with torrential rain, not a day for sightseeing anyway. Both open teams do well, with Gibbo's team getting to the semis for bronze. After prize giving, we head back to the dojo for snacks and beer. Thoroughly debriefed and celebrating, we all head out to a local izakaya and feast on a huge array of dishes joined by lots of sake, shochu and beer. Getting late and with speeches complete, most people head off home. A small group of locals potters off to a local sushi place. From behind the counter, a bottle of shochu with a cartoon of Ozawa-sensei's face is passed around. More great food. The night draws to an end with the big 'O' saying I can come back when I like. Japan has been very kind. The last in a series of early starts sees me heading to Shinagawa for the shinkansen to Hakata. Breakfast with Noriko and then off south to the island of Kyushu, ready for the jetfoil to Korea the next day. I check into a hotel and explore the port and shopping area nearby. Nothing amazingly beautiful, but a good buzz to the place. I get an early night ready for tomorrow's journey across the Sea of Japan. A bright sunny morning bids me farewell from Japan. I get down to the ferry terminal with plenty of time and get through customs. It feels strange moving again after 7 weeks in Japan. Onto the Beetle jetfoil and we are soon speeding across the sea. 3 hours later, the shape of Busan and South Korea looms outside the windows. After clearing customs, I head towards the Haeundae area and a highly recommended youth hostel. The gleeming structure has all kinds of facilities including a golf driving range and conference rooms. Judging by the empty halls, I think this is the main business and youth hostelling is on the side. Checked in, I explore the local area with what is supposed to be the best beach in Korea and lots of tourist facilities. The following day brings torrential rain all day so I have a quiet day writing and watching TV. In the evening, with clearing skies, I meet a friend from London. Won grew up in Busan and works here for a German trading company. We meet up in the main shopping and bar district of Seomyeon, and start with dinner at a BBQ fried rice place. Then onto another bar serving some BBQ'd pork. Won tells me the Koreans always eat food when they drink, which is evident from the second meal of the hour. We chat about Busan and Korea, heading to a final bar before calling it a night. Back to the hostel to my as yet still single dormitory. Thursday is much more clear and I head down to the main station first to sort out my ticket to Seoul the following week. Ticket booked, I walk through the sprawl of Busanjin to Seomyeon and explore the shopping district. Busan has an interesting mix of the feel of Japanese towns and towns in other SE Asian countries. I pick up a Korean language book and finish the day returning to Haeundae beach for another explore. In the evening I have dinner in the hostel top floor restaurant, just me and the bar staff all night. Gorgeous day on Friday. After I complete some exercises in preparation for my teaching course in September, I head back to the beach. This time I come prepared with swimming shorts and a towel. The first time I have swum in the sea since Thailand. A touch cooler in the Sea of Japan but very refreshing on a hot day. After a sunbathe, I head back to the hostel and dinner in the empty restaurant again. Saturday brings my second baseball game of the week, seeing the Lotte Giants (home) beaten by the Twins with Won. Before the game, Won takes me to a local favourite restaurant, cold noodle soup served with kimchi and other tasty morsels. A few more days here and then the move to Seoul. Will add to this over the next week.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1211727420/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1211727420/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1211727420/tpod.html Tue, 08 Jul 2008 09:52:47 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Tokyo, Kanto, Japan

Negotiating the 2km to Nagano station, we board a to train to Japan`s 4th city, Nagoya. Working down through the Japan Alps presents some of the most beautiful scenery in Japan, with huge tree lined valleys dominating. After passing through Matsumoto and a few other small towns, we reach Nagoya and change onto the Shinkansen bound for Kyoto. A short ride into the former capital and then through the maze of subways from the station to reach our hotel.Checked in, Dad and I go out to explore the area near the hotel. South Kyoto is dominated by two controversial buildings facing each other, Kyoto Tower and the enormous new Kyoto Station. Ultra-modern, the station has a vast central space that stretches up 12 storeys to a glass and metal lattice roof. Up either end work a series of escalators connecting the station`s platforms, shops and observation garden at the top. After some quality photo ops, we head down into the plaza below the station and grab a beer before getting some postcards, a seemingly hard task based on the last week. In the evening we have okonomiyaki in a local restaurant. More dancing fish flakes.Overcast and threatening to rain, we head off towards the west Kyoto suburb of Arashiyama next to the Hozu river. To the west of the station lies a bamboo forest, a hilly stretch of towering green trunks with several large temples lurking within. At the top of the park you reach a viewpoint over the Hozu gorge. A small longtail chugs up stream as the towering hills on either dwarf the buildings below. After enjoying the view we head back into the centre and get brunch in a little coffee shop. The owner is a petrol head and the whole place is covered in die-cast models of classic cars. At one end lies a mock up garage festooned with air pumps and tool racks.Back at the station we catch a train back into town and head our separate ways. An afternoon of individual exploration. My first stop is Nijo-jo (literally two castles castle). This was the Kyoto residence of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, a complex designed to show the power of the new Edo (Tokyo) based administration. Inside the huge moated walls lie two palaces, Ninomaru being the largest. Ninomaru is made up of five buildings including the living quarters of the Shogun and the various offices and meeting chambers. All of them are finely decorated with ornate paintings of animals and stories (sorry, no pics allowed). The building housing the Shogun`s living quarters includes `nightingale floors` that chirp as the stream of visitors shuffle through in stocking feet. This was a security feature to catch potential assassins. Back out into the rain, I walk through the set gardens and round the other palace (which is not open to the public).Back into the bustle of Kyoto, I head east to a shop that sells tenegui (head cloths which can be used in kendo). Eirakuya has been in business since 1615, providing printed fabrics to housewives and daimyos. After buying a couple of things I head further east and over the river to Heian-jingu, a massive shrine complex which is modeled on the original Imperial Hall of State from the eighth century. Several weddings are being conducted in the various shrines lying off the main square. Next south and over the canal to Murin-an, a stroll garden designed and built by Marshall Yamagata Aritome, a senior official at the turn of the twentieth century. Heading south you reach the east side of Gion and Maruyama-koen, a large park with a number of large temples. After a chance meeting with Dad heading in the opposite direction, I climb up the Sannen-zaka (three year slope) and Ninen-zaka (two year slope) to the hilltop temple of Kiyomizu-dera. This has been a key religious site in Kyoto since 778 AD, and the series of pagodas and halls are a beautiful sight above the Kyoto skyline. Back down the hill lies a vast terraced cemetery, symmetrical channels filled with grave stones. Back on the flat, I head back to the hotel to meet up with Dad and Natalie. In the evening, we brave the rain and eat at an izakaya nearby. Delicious.Up and out early the next day, we head to Kyoto station and onto the Shinkansen bound for Hiroshima. A short tram ride from the station lies the Industrial Promotion Hall. Built in 1914, it is known as the A-bomb Dome, a twisted hulk lying a few hundred metres from the centre of the blast from the world`s first atomic bomb attack. Now protected, girders have been used to reinforce the structure. Without this building, it would be hard to imagine the destruction 63 years before, when 140,000 died due to the attack. Now Hiroshima is a bustling city; bright sunshine and blue skies.After visiting the Children`s Peace Memorial (a large bronze of a girl called Sasaki Sakado holding an origami crane aloft) and the Memorial Cenotaph, we head into the Peace Memorial Museum. This shows the devastation of the bomb, presenting models and pictures showing the damage to people and buildings. The most compelling exhibits are the objects and clothing that were damaged in the attack. Melted watches, charred tiles, burnt and torn school uniforms. The museum also shows some of the history behind the attack, and discusses the role of war in the world, but the strongest point is the attack itself. Back out in the sunshine, we get some lunch and wander up to the stroll garden of Shukkeien. A beautiful reconstruction with all kinds of wildlife. Then back to Kyoto on the train.The next day, we meander our way back to Tokyo, passing round the back of Mount Fuji on the train. Catching glimpses of Japan`s highest mountain as we go. Back in the capital, Dad and I head to the Tokyo National Museum the next morning. Similar to the British Museum in terms of size and breadth of interest, we focus on the Japanese antiquities and Asian antiquities, still much more to explore. Meeting up with Natalie, we head over to Ueno Zoo. A good collection of animals in Japan`s oldest zoo, the cages are a little on the tight side for my liking though. We collect our things from the ryokan we were in the previous night and head out to Narita Airport. After a night in a hotel, they catch an early morning flight back to the UK. I head back to Emi and Gibbo`s to await my new armour.The next few days involve waiting around for the armour. After hearing news of delivery in a couple of days, I spend a day exploring the Shinjuku and Shibuya districts in the west of the Tokyo. Another day Gibbo and I head to the Budokan to watch the Kanto Region Companies Kendo Competition.. The  Budokan lies in the grounds of the Imperial Palace and is the national martial arts centre, which was built to host the judo events at the Tokyo Olympics. While at the competition, the armour arrives. Monday, I move over to the dojo in Nakano in the west of Tokyo. This will be my home for the next month. My first practice in 7 months comes that evening. As expected tough, but good to get back to kendo. Hopefully things will improve, and the new holes in my left foot and hand will heal.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1213946880/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1213946880/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1213946880/tpod.html Tue, 08 Jul 2008 09:49:59 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Tokyo, Kanto, Japan

The focus of the next month is kendo, which I will spare the reader details of. Interspersed between these sessions is more organising and visiting areas in the Tokyo region. First up came a trip to Roppongi and the Chinese embassy there. An imposing presence with whitewashed walls and heavy security. A country definitely trying to make an impression. After a series of queues, I get my visa application underway and head to the towering streets of Shinjuku for a bit more exploring. A rainy next day brings me to Meguro, a leafy area south west of the Imperial Palace. First I visit the National Park for Nature Study which preserves one of the few remaining areas of natural Tokyo countryside. It only allows 300 visitors at any one time, so the marshy woods make a peaceful place for a stroll away from the hurly burly outside. Next, to the Matsuoka Art Gallery on the north side of the park. Based around the collection of a local entrepreneur, the focus lies with sculpture from around the world, and a small collection of impressionist paintings. An excellent, compact gallery. Final stop in Meguro is the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum. The current exhibition is about Japanese tableware and especially how it changed to meet the demands of European markets in the late 19th/early 20th century. The highlight is the building itself though. Built in the 1920's as the palace of Prince Asaka Yasuhiko, it takes its influence from the Prince's travels in Europe. Art deco with mirrored doors, inlaid floors and furniture; a beautiful building. After exploring the extensive grounds, I hole up in the coffee shop and write a journal entry, watching the rain fall. Following a prebreakfast practice at Tokyo University of Science, a beautiful sunny day greets a trip to Hatsudai near Shinjuku. Another couple of galleries set in the grand Tokyo Opera City complex. The Tokyo Opera City Gallery is similar to the Design Museum in London in terms of its size and scope. Coincidentally the current exhibition featured at the Design Museum. An excellent show on the design of F1 cars over the decades. Great timing. Upstairs is an exhibition of modern Japanese landscape painting focusing on mountain scenes from round Japan. The other main gallery in the Tokyo Opera City complex is the NTT InterCommunication Centre (ICC). It is a funny collection of ultra hi tech pieces demonstrating new ways of interacting with technology, from a machine that shows your effect on the Earth's gravitational field to a sound proof room demonstrating 'inversound'. Cool stuff although pretty bonkers. After a bit more of a wander, it's back to Nakano and the second practice of the day. Back to Roppongi on Saturday to meet up with Noriko. We head to the MORI gallery in the Roppongi Hills complex. this amazing gallery sits on the 54th floor. Before going in, we stroll around the Sky Deck taking in the views over Tokyo's sprawling mass. The exhibition is a retrospective of the Turner prize, so lots of old friends and few new discoveries. Hirst's semi-cows, Whitebread's inverted houses and Perry's pots are all there, and the exhibition ends with last year's winner, Mark Wallinger's video showing a man in a bear suit trapped inside a German art gallery. A side exhibition shows the history of design in the BMW motorsports teams. Out into the sunshine, Noriko and I head to the Mid-town area in Akasaka. The Suntory Gallery sits on the 2nd floor of a large mall. We wander round the exhibition showing a history of Japanese decorative wares, from ancient pottery to lacquerware and Kabuki costumes. The variety is striking, and a cabinet full of ornately decorated snuff boxes, combs and other items shows off the rich history. 'Galleried out', we head to a coffee shop and enjoy the early evening in the park outside. On Sunday, I head to Akihibara searching for an electronic dictionary. On leaving the station, I enter an absolute maelstrom. Police, fire engines, helicopters overhead. Wandering round I find huge crowds gathered outside taped off areas. Down side streets, small taped off sections of pavement appear to host large pools of blood. Not having a clue what is going on, I head south and wander round the Nihombashi area. I later find out that 20 minutes before I got to Akihibara, a salary man unleashed his frustration with life on the shoppers, driving a van into a crowd and then stabbing indiscriminately. A quiet Monday, with practice in the evening is followed by another organising Tuesday. Back to Roppongi to collect the Chinese visa and then a mad dash to Shibuya to get the Mongolian visa application in. Afterwards I meet the first of my language exchange partners, Ai. We have lunch in Harajuku making heavy use of her electronic dictionary, then wander through Yoyogi-koen chatting. In the park lies the Meiji-jingu, a memorial shrine to several of the Meiji emperors. Heading our separate ways, I get back to Nakano for the second language exchange of the day. Chiemi lives in Nakano and speaks good English. With this and her passionate love of football, we don't get much Japanese spoken. Christiano Ronaldo, her favourite. More organising Wednesday, with payment of the Mongolian visa. An almost unfathomable system if you don't read much Japanese. Then practice in the evening. Up early next morning and off with Ozawa-sensei to the Tokyo University of Science campus in Chiba prefecture. This is a good hour and a half from Nakano, but the practice has only 5 people so plenty of contact time. After some lunch with a couple of the students to help them practice English, I head back into town. Noriko and I go out for some dinner in the Midorigaoka area. Chanko, a stew traditionally eaten by sumo wrestlers. Up at the crack of dawn next day for morning practice in Iidabashi. A quiet day exploring near Nakano and then another practice in the evening. Absolutely exhausted by the end of the day. A lie in on Saturday morning and then over to Gibbo and Emi's for dinner. Emi prepares most of it, but Gibbo and I are tasked with folding the gyoza, a lengthy process making mini-pastys. Delicious. The following day is Sunday. In the dojo twice a month is a ladies practice mainly for local housewives that don't get a chance in the week. Ozawa-sensei invites me along. A nice relaxed practice for a Sunday afternoon.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1214828100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1214828100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/bastin79/longtrip_2007/1214828100/tpod.html Tue, 08 Jul 2008 09:48:58 -0400 To Rio and then on.

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Tokyo, Japan

The third week in the dojo starts with chores. Cleaning, bins, etc. After lunch I head out for a wander north. A small shrine and park lie about 1km north of Nakano station making a pleasant change from the unending suburban alleys. In the evening I head back to the dojo for a session. Into Shibuya the following morning to collect my passport from the Mongolian embassy. Another fresh visa to add to the collection. Then up the Yamanote line to Shinjuku and some much overdue buying of presents. The array of buildings in this area is fantastic, acting as the inspiration for the city in Blade Runner. Towering skyscrapers with neon-lit bar districts below. In the evening I meet another language exchange partner, Miho, for a cup of tea and a chat. Similar level of English to Chiemi before, so we end up speaking English mostly. After we go our separate ways, I have a wander round the bustling streets of Shinjuku by night. Another visit to Meguro Wednesday, the location of the Belarussian embassy and my opportunity to secure the last visa of the whole trip. Hidden in a quiet suburban block on the hill, the only telltale sign is a large Belarussian flag flying in front. A couple of minutes after ringing the bell, a head pops out of the door and beckons me into the deserted visa office. The form is in Russian and Japanese, but thankfully the one member of staff, Irina, speaks English and talks me through the details. Last application in, I head towards the bay area of Odaiba. Constructed on reclaimed land over the last 40 years, Odaiba is a series of malls, museums and industrial centres sitting out in Tokyo Bay. The easiest way to reach the area is via the monorail which loops over the Rainbow Bridge and round the artificial peninsular. First to the Miraikan, a museum dedicated to cutting edge technology and science. The collection includes advances in robotics, space research, genetics and materials sciences. At one end, a huge LCD covered globe shows satellite images of the Earth's weather. After this glimpse into tomorrow's world, I walk across the road to the National Maritime Museum. An interesting collection showing the history of Japanese seafaring, including a number of record breaking submersibles. Back onto the monorail and to Nakano for the evening practice. A return to Chiba prefecture and another practice at the Tokyo University of Science. After practice, I have lunch with some of the students wanting to practice their English. Back to Nakano, then to Futako-tamagawa to have dinner with Noriko. A bright sunny is the perfect excuse for an explore of the area east of Nakano. Nothing devastatingly beautiful, just more small towns molded into one. Evening sees the usual practice and then some much needed laundry. Up early Saturday, I head south west along the coast to the seaside town of Kamakura. On the other side of Yokohama, this was the capital of Japan for a century or so, after the victory of Minamoto Yoritomo in 1185. He established his bakufu or tent government in the valley where modern Kamakura now sits. Although the imperial buildings are long gone, the period is remembered by a great number of grand shrines and temples. I meet Noriko at Kita-kamakura station. First up is Engaku-ji, famous at this time of year for its hydrangeas which spread blue and white through the gardens. At the top of a steep hill is the oldest bell in Kamakura, Ogane forged in 1301. Down the hill and wandering into town, we reach Kencho-ji, the most important of the town's Zen temples and Japan's oldest training monestery. The array buildings includes the Hatto, one of the largest wooden structure in Japan. In one of the little shrines, a wedding ceremony proceeds, bride and groom looking awkward in their heavy robes. Back out walking we head into the main shopping area before getting lunch at a local Italian. With the rain now coming in torrents we reach the beach and huddle under the eaves of a half-constructed cafe watching the surfers. With no sign of abating, we walk quickly, umbrellas pulled low, to Kamakura station and the train back towards Tokyo. After a late start Sunday, I head into Shinjuku to try and find a couple more things and generally soak up the atmosphere. I get back to Nakano to meet Osawa-sensei at the dojo. He asked me to join him for some sushi at his favourite local restaurant. A family run venture, with the two sons working behind the counter while the father chats to the clientele. Ozawa-sensei and I chat while tucking into course after course of beautifully prepared and fresh delicacies. The most unusual was raw terrapin egg, an uncommon dish even in Japan and supposed to be good for all kinds of ailments. Thoroughly stuffed, we head back in the persistent rain to the dojo. Still overcast skies greet a trip to Suidobashi and the surrounding area. After popping into a kendo shop for a bit of browsing, I wander through the vast Tokyo Dome complex. At the heart lies the enormous Tokyo Dome, home to the most famous baseball team in Japan, the Yomuiri Giants. With this comes a hotel, theme park, shopping malls and restaurant. After exploring here, I head to the Ikebukuro area in north west Tokyo. Dominated by two shopping centres (including the largest in Japan) it is not a touristic highlight, but an interesting place to spend a few hours. Back to Nakano in the evening for practice, accompanied by more torrential rain. Busy day Tuesday. First into Shiroganedai to pick up the Belarussian visa. All done on that front hopefully. Then to Minami-asagaya to drop off my armour to be name tagged. A morning of chores is followed by an afternoon of galleries. One of my fellow kendoka at Koboukan is an art student. I meet Renee at Kyobashi and we head to the Bridgestone gallery nearby. The temporary exhibition follows themes in the Japanese artist, Oka's career. Interesting stuff but a little overshadowed by the small but excellent permanent collection of impressionist and avant-garde works. After a photography gallery and some lunch, we head to Shibuya and the Bunkamura gallery. An excellent temporary exhibition focusing on Russian avant-garde artists at the start of the twentieth century. After an afternoon of fine art, an evening of fine food with Gibbo, Emi and Noriko in Futako-tamagawa. With Korea rapidly approaching, I head to the Edo Tokyo museum the next day. An excellent review of Tokyo's history. Practice in the evening. Less than a week to the ferry.
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