Dar Bin Safi Fes

... built around the 16th century on top of a hill overlooking Fez, to monitor the potentially disloyal populace of Fez. The panoramic views of Fez from Bourj Sud were stunning, and Sayid passed us off to an on-site tour guide who brought us through the interior of the fortress. Inside there were mainly weaponry exhibits, as well as some art work. There also was the entrance to a tunnel system, built probably earlier than the 16th century, which runs underground ...

... promenading.
I may have used the IBIS but took 'petit dejeuner' in a local cafe - the French influence really has survived here with French very widely spoken & boulangeries common.
Another day deep into the souks, including the tanneries and the purchase of the goat skin pouffe. Once again got lost - found the same mosque 3 times. There are signs in the souks but they seem to run out intermittently. Still finally ...

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... of shops selling a particular item which unfortunately seem to be getting diluted by the encroachment of generic CD and snack shops). All this in a few relatively stress free hours with not a hint of any of the tribulations for which we had prepared ourselves. We could see now why the guidebook said you could spend days here in Fes and regretted that we didn't have the days to spend here. Instead we took a hassle free taxi ride to ...

... host brother he was told to do this by his mother (his brothers wife)......because she doesn't want them to visit them in Casablanca.....I thought this was quite unlikely but he insisted this was the case and when he is the only one in the family ho speaks English and he is my unpaid personal Arabic tutor I thought it wise to go along with him. Also, the skies opened up here about 5 days ago and I was woken up at various times of the night ...

... must come directly from the middle of the sahara, so hot and so dry. We finally get to Fes, it's enormous with I gigantic medina. We get to our hotel (Batha, just beside the medina). Reservation made through internet and the price is 40€/night the double room. The room actually turns ou to be a triple, big, spacious and a nice bathroom. It's got swimming pool (a cold and wonderful swimming pool) and a restaurant jus beside it. They serve beers. When the sun gets a little low ...

... gallery sat a large, clothed older woman. She handed us black olive soap, exfoliating mitt and took 50 dirhams for the massage. We quickly undressed and gingerly made our way across the wet tiled floor which was like a skating rink, and lifted up the sheet of heavy polythene hung across the doorway. If I 'd thought the entrance hall was bedlam, this was way beyond. The vast room was filled with naked women squatting on the floor, washing themselves, surrounded by countless buckets of water ...

... a grand taxi to our riad in the medina which Lisa had booked some time before. Carved sacko walls, painted ceilings, marble, roof top balcony with a view of fes, kitchen ,bathroom (with hot) and our own hamam. It was amazing! Headed out to have alook at the town and had dinner at Restaurant Kasbah. We were up on the top balcony which had a great view of the hustle and bustle without the noise as well as a view of the ...

... town) which was double the space for half the price. The one positive of medina-living was that we were only a short stroll from a little restaurant which soon became our regular haunt. On a strip of restaurants that shall be aptly termed rob-the-tourists-blind-street, his was a tiny hole in the wall with a small 6 seater table awkwardly resting on the uneven street. While the surrounding restaurants had shiny green chair covers, oversized white bows, matching ...