we waited in the bus station for a long while because we had chosen to take the long haul bus instead of one just to the ferry crossing. we tried to figure out during this time if the stares we are getting are because the men find my uncovered hair attractive or offensive. both are disconcerting ideas but the stares are very direct and long but ...

It's 5 am, the morning was breezing. "Are you ready", my friend, a local ranger asked me to start to head up to Paltuding. Yes, I noded.

Get up at 3:30 am! COLD, very cold weather. Rapid shower and get dressed: 3 pairs of socks, 2 t-shirts, one thin pullover, and a light raincoat, but with SHORT PANTS (had no others). Monika slightly warmer with her new jeans and sweater. We ride a jeep and start our way to Mt. Penanjakan top, so we can admire sunrise and cloud sea. Hundreds of p...