The Lodge Baku

... a "Bridge Fee" which was apparently for the privilege of using the loading ramp to get off the damn boat! Monies exchanged, the port officials became all smiles and handshakes and waved us on our way.<br><br>Out into nigh time Baku at about 11.30 in the evening, and it seemed like it was rush-hour in New York, with cars racing each other at stupid speeds through the heavy traffic. At this point, Tim ...

... to stop her sliding off the oily deck into the sea. Fantastic. I have met a Russian lorry driver called Alexander, who has taught me to play Kazio. He thinks the crossing will take 3 days. I hope he's wrong but he has apparently done this journey many times.

... lost on the metro, but eventually got back to the Gordons. They had a few friends over and we spent all evening outside chatting and barbequeing. It was fantastic and we will all be reluctant to leave the land of real food, showers and beds.

Spent the day in Baku and met up with the Gordons in the early evening. We had showers! I was disappointed to find that most of my tan was ingrained dirt. Graeme took us out for a curry and few beers and we returned to sleep in beds! Chris and I shared a double bed, but he only hugged me once in his sleep. It was a special moment.

... but take a cap. I turn left at the hotel, and cannot believe my eyes: Somebody is standing next to his car and pouring old oil down the canalization. After 3 kilometers walking, crossing 3 roads and getting almost killed 3 times by idiots pointing with their car at you when you cross a street, I arrive at fountain square, the absolute opposite of what I've seen so far from Baku: clean ...

... a spectacularly depressing oil and industrial town, right on the water, and head for the petroglyphs. Arrive early, so boil the billy, and wait for opening. Most of the team opt to look, 2 manat per person, 3 for a camera, total of 6 for the guide. Around 12,000 years ago the Caspian Sea level was about 80 metres higher, and the foreshores were lush with vegetation, and Stone Age hunter-gatherers lived in the caves. Around 6000 ...

Salam, hm, bevor ich morgen Baku verlasse hier noch eine Bewertung der *stans. Das Essen war ziemlich enttaeuschend, Schaschlyk, Schaschlyk, Schaschlyk. Wenn es lecker gemacht waere waere es ja ok, aber es ist auch ziemlich ungewuerzt. Ich hatte einen Turkmenen gefragt, ob Turkmenen kein tuerkisch moegen. Und Turkmenen moegen tatsaechlich keine tuerkische Kueche, da sie zu scharf ist! (hm, tuerkische Kueche und scharf?) Die Buerokratie ist noch ziemlich schlimm, sowjetisch ...

Is Baku part of Europe or Asia? On the map it has always appeared to me to be part of Asia but being here tells another story. It looks and feels much more European than Asian. Gazing upon the Caspian Sea, I realise that I traveled from sea to sea, from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea. I learned that Baku is 27.5 meters below sea level. Taking a journey south of ...

... Then we say Fai Waki? (how do you wake?). They reply Me waki moi, faii safey waki? (I woke beautifully, how did you wake?) Then we reply Mi waki moi (I woke beautifully). Finally we both respond eeyaa (ya). It is lyrical and sing songing and a delight to learn - until we meet the 50th person and then it starts to get a little old! We have attracted a group of children and my darling Masa has attached herself to my arm. She is a friendly seven year old who I decide I ...

... to the fact that I may never leave Turkmenistan. I looked up at the portrait of El Presidente and cursed him (under my breath of course as I didn't wish to be arrested). More waiting ensued, before the six were allowed to enter customs and try to leave. This took them until 5pm and they finally boarded the ship. Despairingly I slumped in my metal seat and head bowed prayed that one day I might leave the country. It had the feeling of a detention centre, as the few allowed to ...