Takojte Hotel Merzouga

... with rocky gorges, palm trees and stone dwellings (similar to Mesa Verde) built into the mountainside (all this within one day!). I was listening to music on my Zune and set it to U2 - in my opinion the most appropriate soundtrack for this life experience. When 'Heartland' came on I really think I had some sort of spiritual experience (I won't say religious experience because that wouldn't be appropriate for me, but I ...

Un desert c est sec. Mais je viens d arriver il vient juste de s arreter de pleuvoir. Et oui sur la frange du sahara il peux pleuvoir 15j d affilé. Tant mieux, car il est plus facile de skier avec des dunes humides. Je ne suis venu dans cet endroit du maroc pour pouvoir skier et pas pour faire du chameau car je pourrai faire de plus belle randonnée en cahmeau au mali ou en mauritanie.

... hours we dismounted and scrambled up a dune to watch the sunset. We arrived at our Berber camp just before it went dark, but there wasn't enough light to see into our tent. We had forgotten to bring a torch, but luckily we were given a lamp and could just make out a few mattresses and thick blankets on the floor. Mum and I asked where the toilets were and we were directed out into the desert. We weren't sure whether we ...

... of the country and wanting to be respectful towards that, and us walking around in our underwear, but when you're that hot, formalities go out the window! We also stopped off at some ruins that were the remains of a palace more than 500 years old. After spending one night in a hotel at the bottom of the gorge, we continued our trip East. Sitting in the van for so long is grueling, but the worst times are from 4-6pm, as this is when it seems to be ...

... look like baked mud, but on close inspection they are simply folds of rock pushed out of the desert sands. Its a dry world: your eyes get dry, the patches of green are few and in places simply breathing was sufficient proof that a fan forced oven was more efficient at cooking from the inside out than a conventional oven. Oddly enough, it snows here in winter. Amid this brutal landscape is dotted the local population in uniform mud brick cubed homes ...

... the hotel looked plain and boring, however once you stepped through the front gates, you walked into an Arabic garden paradise. It was decorated beautifully, with lush plants and sparkly tapestries around every corner. We quickly agreed on 220 durham per person, which included dinner and breakfast. Then we sat down for a delicious dinner, drinks, shisha (hookah), and swimming. The young guys, who worked at the Kasbah, seemed ...

... the afternoon we had to set off suddenly as the storm in the mountains during the night had caused flooding and we were almost cut off by the water flowing down. it was very strange to see the dunes turn into a river bed, and we soon learned from grumpy;s reaction that camels do not like flowing water. we made it to the oasis and went to bed after a tagine. other trekkers soon arrived. we all slept in berber tents. ours was the only one with waterproofing ...

... so many hues it is unbelievable, changing color slowly as the hours pass from light pink and gray early in the morning to warmer yellows and oranges, before darkening as the sun sets again, turning a deep rust, then red, the mountains blue and purple in the distance before night swallows them up with its equally stunning star littered, black desert sky. We stayed there another night just enjoying our recently found plushness, trying to soak it up knowing it ...

... melon for dessert. We slept under the stars which was pretty amazing.. there were so many stars and the first northern starry night id seen. Sleeping under the stars in the sahara is pretty amazing.. however in the middle of the night the wind picked up and we had to retreat to the berber tents. The next day we hopped back on the camels for the painful ride back into town. At least we were feeling better! I'll try and update some more soon.. Happy birthday mum! 5/6/05

... to Mustafa who shrugged his shoulders as if to say "yeah, so what". After a breakfast of cheese, bread and fruit, we were on our way back to Auberge L'Oaisis. Our Saharan adventure complete, we packed and made ready for our trip back across the piste and so called civilization. The owner of the Auberge, one of many brothers (I should add that there was a total absence of women at this place) suggested that we travel back the same way that we had come. We had read in ...