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The old city of Trieste is on a hilltop rather than along the harbor. Like most
places dating from the Roman era through medieval times, defense was an
important consideration in its siting. The Cathedral of San Giusto is mostly
Romanesque in style and not very large by European standards but with some
great Byzantine mosaics. I was lucky to have gotten to the bell tower a few
minutes before noon so got to be present for the deafening noise ...
... that appears to be unique
to Slovenia. They come in various forms and are often a kind of savory pinwheel
of pasta dough or buckwheat pasta dough with a cottage cheese filling and
breadcrumb and butter topping. These, though, were a dessert version, more like
giant pot stickers stuffed with a walnut filling and topped with brown sugar
and butter. They do great desserts in Slovenia, and are generous with the
digestifs too. I was given not just a ...
... plan to one of the days when I have good cooking facilities again and a circle of friends to invite over for it.
I didn’t encounter any of Lidia’s dishes in Istria, but I found something else – truffles! Istria is known for both black and white truffles that are said to be as good as those that come from Piemonte or the Dordogne, and early October is well into the fall truffle season. The folks I talked with in Zagreb suggested going on ...
Slovenia has only 16 miles of coastline, not much compared to Croatia's thousands of miles of coast when you include all of its islands and peninsulas. The short stretch is quite developed with an industrial port city (Koper), a swank resort (Portoroz), and a few other old towns. The one real attraction, though, is Piran, a beautiful old town on a peninsula similar to Porec and Rovinj in Croatian Istria but ...
At 9 am sharp, our guide, Goran arrived and we set off for a tour of Rovinj where the signs are all in both Croatian and Italian because of the dominance of the Venician Empire on this part of Croatia. Both languages are required in school which makes it very easy for us Americans. Goran was a walking history book and we learned the entire history and development from beginning to the present. It felt ...