Riad Tizwa Fes

... riad” means a guesthouse of Moroccan hospitality. “Dar” means house, and “Dmana” means a wise old woman. (We are staying in the “Zineb” room, but I have no idea what that means…) The guesthouse itself is four stories high – the first story contains a double-high covered courtyard (glass atrium roof, with a hand-painted wood centerpiece), and the top two stories contain only fourteen rooms and suites! The ...

... me it cost 20 dirham for a very short ride. I told him of course not and gave him 7.50 dirham and left. The hostel recepcionist pointed me into the direction to check for other hostels. I was walking for 10 or 15 minutes with no luck in finding any signs for a hostel. I told myself that if anyone offered to help, I would at least take a look. As luck has it, as I was following a sign to a 'hotel' some kid getting on his motor scooter comes up to me and asks me if I know ...

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... liked it. Our first task was to get some dinner as we had skipped lunch and we had numerous recommendations for the nearby Restaurant Casbah. It didn't disappoint and provided Jen with her vegetables in the form of a nice vegetable tangine and Jeff with his first memorable non-liquid meal of a delicious cumin roast chicken. After that we timidly explored the maze of streets (said to number 9000) as the workshops and shops all shut down. We ...

... crumbling buildings topped with hundreds of satellite dishes.  Our guide informed us that satellite dishes were very cheap in Morocco, which explains the thousands of them that top every Moroccan city and town we've seen. Our guide also took us amongst the countless narrow streets, peering into cavernous underground rooms that housed giant ovens which were used to heat the local hammams.  We passed communal bakeries, and hammams that were ...

... dinner we went on top of the roof, watched the stars (some spectacular of the shooting variety) and played guitar. This morning after breakfast we journied deep into the thriving Medina. At breakfast an English couple warned us of the trials that awaited us trying to negotiate the labrynth of streets, alleys and tunnels. After walking along the main path for 15 minutes we were guided (which the fella assured me was for free) to a tannery. From above the large work area we ...

... join me. We hadn't really spoken to each other up until now and I thought it would be a chance to get to know her. She was quiet and serious and kept very much in the background. Unfortunately she had not paid the single supplement and was sharing rooms with Annika, a German woman, and they were like chalk and cheese, friction from day 2. For the sake of £75, I cannot understand why you would opt to share with a total stranger - it's such a lottery. You could end up sharing with a mad ...

... made it there, first by riding in 4 x 4s then riding camels under the stars. WOW. I have never seen so many stars. It was like someone pulled back a second set of curtains in the sky. They were so close and extended so far. We slept in a desert oasis that night. There were all these really nice Moroccans who ran the place and we all stayed up late that night dancing to the music they played. So wonderful. Another thing i will never forget- THE COLD. It ...

... time the bags were thin and torn and broke apart on the beach where they were of course abandoned. Anyway; all the kids made it back to have a nice fire and burn the playground garbage (yep, mostly plastic) to clear the space. The organiser was found crying behind the school. Sam assessed the situation as one of priorities: if you have to focus on food and water and where your next meal is coming from, then there is no way you can get people to care about garbage ...