Prag Belgrade

... Orthodox church during its Sunday service. Men are on one side and women on the other. Luckily, I had been observing from the correct side.

As I enter the main plaza, military & police everywhere, heavily armed. Groups of 6-10 are pretty common as I walk along. The first group of police that I see go up to a person who appears to be Islamic. He is dressed fine and is by himself. They talk to him then ...

... stalls selling everything from pirated DVDs to fridge magnets of Eric Cartman screaming "RESPECT MY AUTHORATAAYY!". Further up getting to the entrance of the fortress grounds, there are more stalls of locals selling trinklets. You women would go batshit crazy here. I stopped at stall advertising the largest denomination banknote in the history of the world. It was. A banknote from 1993 Yugoslavia, when hyperinflation caused the currency to get FUBAR. The note was for 500 Billion (Yes ...

Once my one-day visit to Hungary was over, I returned to land inhabited by Slavs. Not only were the Serbs who inhabited Serbia Slavs, but their religion was Orthodox. Not only was their religion Orthodox, but they said things like "Ladno" (Well ...) and "Izvini" (Excuse me) and "Da" (Yes). Not only did they say these things, but they (the guys) said them whilst inflating their chests big with air, to make themselves sound tough. In all these qualities, they ...

... to the tentativeness I've felt so far in the countryside. There are black cemetery head-stones and red-tile roofs in Serbia, and garden spots well defined. But this bus is half empty, like most I've been on. At least they tend to run on time. I have to change buses half the way in Nis so I'm assuming that'll be a self-evident process. It's not that easy, but I figure it out and continue on, despite the fact that no one speaks English. By the ...

İ woke up early thıs mornıng so I could complete my Iranıan vısa applıcatıon. I dıdnt make any changes I submıtted ıt. I was ınformed that I would get a response wıthın 10 days. I spent the rest of the day tourıng the cıty. I cant say I saw anythıng specıal. I dıd go vısıt the largest (or one of the largest) Orthodox churches ın the world. It has been 50 years ın the makıng and ıs stıll beıng buılt. From the outsıde ıt looks ...

... is Serbian, Kosovo is ours!". In the evening we went towards the road providing to Budapest. Yet well after more than an hour we found out why nobody would stop for us there - because the road fork was quite a few km behind the city, and we were standing at a highway going towards Zagreb (E-70), instead of the highway towards Budapest (E-75)... Some kind people told us which bus to take and where to walk forward. I was well after 10 pm, when we got to a ...

... of the oldest in town, and right by the central pedestrian boulevard). Maciej and I are leaving tomorrow, early in the morning. A guy that works for a local car rental will deliver the car we rented....yes, that's right, he'll deliver it right in front of our hostel, and the car will actually cost less, as we are renting it from the airport office which is cheaper....don't ask me exactly how it works, but that's Belgrade! Next destination is ...

... those eager to explore. Because of that, it feels like more of an insider's city, where specific sights are somewhat few, but surprises lurk around seemingly every other corner. Most of the damage from bombings in the 90s (most notably in the Kosovo campaign by NATO in 1999) have been cleaned up, although there are a couple trashed buildings still lying dormant along Knez Milosa in the town center. Overall though, it feels like a lively, youthful place where people are more ...

... I'd seen in so many other places. Belgrade and Serbia were really just a stopover for Chris and I, as our main destinations were Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia, but I'd seen enough to wish I had more time to explore Serbia. I could only imagine what the city must have been like a decade earlier, as I read about 'Serb atrocities' in the morning paper. Probably not too different, with young people meeting friends and chatting over a coffee or beer as they were today.

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