Melal Apartment Hotel
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... simply fantastic.
With some additions like cucumber and tomatoes this was going to be our standard breakfast for the next three weeks, but we never got tired of it. It just tasted great wherever we went, especially if the bread was fresh and still warm.
The hike to the castle was strenuous (actually quite strenuous, but probably more because we are both quite unfit at the moment), but the surrounding mountainous landscape more than
made up for ...
... find the right amounts even if we have figured it out. I started counting the zeros on each bill to make sure I was actually handing over 500,000 rials and not 50,000.
Iran really is a world of its own and we found that it is really one of the first countries where we have absolutely no clue how to do things, how to get somewhere (which is why we rely on taxis instead of taking the metro as we usually would) and how to really behave ...
... cookies and knocking back tea. It was such an impressive spread I wasn't sure where 'brunch' ended and lunch began... until it came out!
Zamboor produced an awesome array of deliciousness, the names of which unfortunately escape me... a slow cooked beef which had been on for a day, herb and spice infused salad and rice, and various home pickled bits and pieces. Despite not being too hungry it was easily devoured, thanks both to how good it was, and my newfound ...
... of Iranian people. Here's a few snippets; "We do not want a political system that is tied to, and forces upon us, religious beliefs", "yes, we live together, in Tehran it's quite common for unmarried couples", "we are agnostic, the regime has killed religion for us" and finally "everyone hates the hijab (women's dress code), it's not just the women who think it's daft" Of course these are the young (and not so young) educated urbanites, the rural areas (by and large) are ...
... I could see that even if there were no more delays, and I caught a taxi straight away from the bus station to the railway station, my train would be gone). "No problem" he said, and jumped on the phone to his dad in Tehran. His parents hopped in their car, and came and met the bus on the outskirts of Tehran, where the motorway finished. My friend and I jumped in, and dad cut a path through the traffic on squealing tyres (red lights be damned), depositing me ...