Hotel Zarina Samarkand

Early in the morning we go back to the police station. There are more forms to sign. I get a statement and the bike and my documents are released. We go to the hospital to have my wound dressed again. It is still bleeding and the ankle is very swollen. The dressing is a waste of time but it is clean and I redo it myself. The bike is a cosmetic mess and it loses a little oil but it runs OK. Rustam ...

... correctly) that after flying all the way from wherever they live to Samarkand people are unlikely to balk at a few extra dollars to see the sights, but after Iran we found the sights of Samarkand relatively exp ensive. The mosque was extremely impressive though, and the inner courtyard was an oasis of leafy calm away from the main road outside.

From the mosque it was a short walk to the Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum complex. This was literally an avenue of mausoleums, all ...

... and Uzbekistan, who are experienced with truck life. It is only two weeks we remind ourselves as the bleaters start complaining about the overcrowding. I think a normal tour for these guys would have been a lot better. It certainly would have been better for the truckies.

There is one major bonus with a crowded truck. With more people we get more cooking and cleanup teams so we should be able to have some time to relax each day as the tasks are shared. Mixing the personalities will ...

... is coming home with us. After investigating every type of carpet from Tunisia to here, this is also the place for either silk or wool carpets.


The company focuses training people in the old forgotten skills and creating work for the local Uzbeks. Other countries now make carpets using machinery as the GDP’s have climbed, like Turkey. This seems to be one of the remaining few centres of excellence and they are determined not to let the skills ...

... the old Marakanda. The name Shah-i-Zinda means “Tomb of the Living King” and the mausoleum houses family members and favourites of Tamerlame and Ulugbek.

Despite our exhaustion, it was a hauntingly beautiful place with an atmosphere to match. Lola suggested that we should perhaps use this opportunity to “explore our spirituality”. By this time such a soul searching opportunity didn’t really appeal but we plodded obediently into one of the peaceful ...

... thought it was funny. The car ride to Shakhrisabz (a town with more blue domes) was great for the fact I got to drive through a mountain pass at 3000m, see some green on trees and get to witness some traditional uzbek villages in action - it seemed moving the cows was what was happening that day. And lastly i have to saw hello to the three crazy Irish bikers heading to the Olympics ...

... and cops stopped me after another 3 minutes, because I was alone walking through the main street. I was a bit lost, and I was looking for the hotel with all my things on me. They've escorted me to the hotel. Next morning the first thing I saw on the street, was a peacock! It was walking in the snow. amazing never saw this type of hen exposed to such cold temperatures. It seemed like it was okay for him anyway.

... See they hide the money in the hand, then shake, like this." Sure enough, the truck driver ahead and militsia shook hands. Others who don't shake get pulled over, searched, and harassed until they pay. When the militsia and government are corrupt, then there are problems with the mafia too, as corruption spreads through society. "In the last few years corruption has become much worse ...

... were three stalls selling melons, what we didn't expect was to be seated in the shade while an Uzbek gentleman sliced up the biggest melon I've ever seen and fed it to us piece by piece, really juicy and refreshing. Not only that but when we were ready to leave any offer of payment was refused and we were presented with another two huge melons for the journey. What a lovely way to start a holiday.
The rest of the journey's quite uneventful and ...

... scratch and walked in the mud in the dark along a river. AHHH!! We had electricity some of the time and water most of the time but the hot water has been shut off for the summer already. So, no shower for me that week. I did wash my hair though. But, when I got back to my village, I had a nice hot shower. The first one in two weeks! But we did have western toilets in the apartments. Yes, I am loving it here. Yes, I do think to ...