Golden Dar Tourist Hotel Sanaa

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... staying in a more comfortable hotel in the new city, like at the Mercure or the Sheraton 5. Qat and jambiyyas are the two hallmarks of Yemen. My experience with qat was brief and ineffective, but may have led to my stomach problems 24 hours later. It seems that qat is a wasteful drain on Yemeni society and agriculture, with so much good farmland used for its harvest, so much money spent on its purchase, and so much time wiled away as men chew it and ...

... I got a room in Hotel Gabal Kawkaban, a tower house belonging to Mr. Yahia, a great guy who alone made my feelings for Yemen grow fonder. I got a basic room about 10 feet square with pads and carpets on the floor, but no furniture at all. The total price for the night was only $12.50, including a delicious dinner and breakfast. The Yemeni shared bathroom was stinky and there wasn't any toilet paper, but that barely diminished my love for the place, largely due ...

... to have a four-wheel drive. The roads through the villages are unpaved. In many places, they are not even graded...rocky, in fact: better suited for donkeys or walking than for cars. The town is nestled in a dramatic setting in a wadi (a dry gulley) up against an imposing mountain butte. Many towns seemed to be built on top of, or up against, mountains, rocky outcrops or promontories. Clearly as defensive measures ...

... and an "Arab oasis for the intrepid." There is a Yemeni joke that finds Adam and the Archangel Gabriel returning to earth for a visit. As the pair fly over the various nations of the world, Babriel acts as a tour guide. The angel points out France, Italy, Greece, etc. The wole time, Adam looks terribly confused, and finally confesses: " I don't recognize anything" At last, as the two soar over southern Arabia, Adam's face ...

... which looked out onto another fantastic view of the area and was miraculously clear of clouds for just long enough to take pictures. That evening, we arrived back at the hotel in time for dinner and entertainment. This particular hotel is known for its evening entertainment. And they really do know how to throw a party. Right after we finished dinner, the staff approached our group of two girls and two boys and asked us if we wanted to dress up ...

... of them an old synagogue. In the evening, the hotel organised for an 'aoud player and some drummers to play some excellent traditional music from the Hadramawt and Heraz, and some of them did the jambiyya dance - insisting that I and the only other guest, another Briton my age called Ross, join in. It is the first time I have had my hands held by a man in a skirt (a lot of Yemeni men wear 'futahs' - a wrap around skirt) and danced around with him - but ...

... in close together. Shibam really was impressive - even though it is small, has dust roads, and isfull of goats and so on, the nature of the buildings gives it an oddly metrapolitan feel. I very much doubt there is anywhere else quite like it elsewhere. We also climbed the side of the wadi opposite the town in time for a spectacular sunset and terrific views. We flew back early this morning, and my plan for today is to move into Ursula's house, and join her again for the ...

... Yes. Of course." "I want to talk to her." Damn. So, I walked up to the window and he asked me for my Yemeni Identity Card. I started fumbling around in my purse and looked desperately to my driver. He helplessly shrugged his shoulders. My cover was blown (pun intended). I pulled out my passport copy. "You no Yemeni," said the man in English. "No," I replied sheepishly. "You American. Mamnoua [forbidden]. You need tasrih ...

... and dined with him. As a result of yesterday, my view of Yemeni food has altered greatly - in the home, or in a good eatery, it is really really good. Abdullah was the first ever student at Lydbury, and had loads of photos of his stay there (when I was only a few months old). Just as in Kenya four years ago, when friends of Mum and Dad in Nairobi showed me pictures of them in am dram productions back in the late seventies, it is a lovely feeling to be following in ...