Farhang Hotel Yazd

... of the differences – get rid of the fear of the unknown and suddenly the world is full of potential friends who are more similar to you than you'd ever think. This is particularly true for Iran, where outsiders (like us) have so many misconceptions about the country and its people.

Stepping off the air-conditioned bus we were again hit with a wall of dry heat. Along with Kashan this would have been the hottest place we'd been to – the mercury must have been touching 50 ...

... simple, loose weave, long cotton one in dark brown to match my flowing robes. The pretty silky scarves are lovely, but they keep sliding off and this one just sits happily on my head without the need to constantly check that it’s in place. It can be draped quite loosely, whilst still maintaining my modesty and it’s much cooler too – 25,000 Rial well spent (NZ$4).


We finally ventured out to the ...

... continues to climb higher and was now in the mid 40’s. Once again, twin single beds and this time these were the hardest beds ever! Authentic hotels sometimes take it too far as we were effectively sleeping on exactly the same thin cotton futons and boards as the locals do.


We were just in time for buffet lunch across the road at the Silk Road Hotel –camel casserole! Then it was time to join the rest ...

... we would cross at this border and transit straight through Pakistan into India because the situation in Pakistan is quickly deteriorating and most of the refugees were now heading to Karachi right in the South. This meant we would be driving for about 2 weeks straight, hard desert bush camping before reaching Amritsar, without showers and strict water rations. Steve gave everyone the option to leave and fly over Pakistan, if they thought it wasn't safe ...

... trip so we're thrilled as you can imagine. I chatted today with a guy fromYazd who is studying for his master's degree in Electrical Engineering. He was really interesting, and had just gotten back from a family pilgrimage to Iraq since there are some holy Islam sites there, and he was telling us about how Iraq compares to Iran (not good - minimal electrcity, poor sanitation, etc.). Then, out of nowhere, he says "By the way, did Obama ...

... situé sur la route entre Esfahan et Yazd. Il faut en effet préciser que le temps coulant à vive allure et étant attendu à Mascate dans moins d'une semaine, je m'étais mis à compter les jours et, ce faisant, avais fait une croix sur une "vraie" excursion désertique, concrêtement éloignée des grands axes routiers. Mais on m'avait dit ...

... right. No. If you're wanting to tell an Iranian to go away you either say "Enough" - "bass-tey" or "Away" - "borro". The brush with the underbelly of Yazd behind us Mohsen led us into a hotel converted from an old merchant's house to view the courtyard, and a groovy photograph taken of his previous group with everyone (apart from one loner) pointing a camera at the person taking the photograph! Met another group of Germans ...

... and gardens were a delight, and a great place for a rest and to catch up with yourself, all under brilliant sunshine and ever friendly locals. Soon enough it was back on the paddy wagon and a quick tour of a henna mill. The first one Mohsen headed into was enveloped in a cloud of dust. I instantly feared for my camera's wellbeing and stayed well clear. Thankfully, he realised we were not in the correct mill and headed across the ...

... zoorkhaneh club, but I wasn't really impressed with their physical accomplishments. Some guys seem stronger than others, but most are of average physique. There is even a big fat guy who quickly spun out of control when it was his turn to spin, which amused all the spectators. Maybe physical exercise is just a part of zoorkhaneh, in which case I'm simply missing the point. But it was interesting to see it and know that there are zoorkhaneh clubs all over Iran and the tradition is alive and well.

... fires of the Inquisition finally vanquished them all. Today there are only about a few hundred thousand Zoroastrians world-wide, many of them Indians based in Mumbai (Parsis, a particularly wealthy and influential minority in India). Even though they are regarded as pagans and non-believers by the Iranian mainstream, they have fared comparatively well in Iran. Afterall, Zoroastrianism is an important Persian legacy that has made Iran unique in the world.