Domaine de la Vitrolle
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TravelPod Member ReviewsDomaine de la Vitrolle Limeuil
This small chateau is located a mile or so east of Limeuil on the Vezere River in the midst of a huge field, reached by a narrow drive that (barely) fits through an narrow opening in a hugely overgrown "hedge". I stayed there because it was one of the places recommended by Martin Walker in his "Bruno's Perigord" blog. It was once used the headquarters for the French Resistance movement by Andre Malraux in the summer of 1944. It also appeared in several Bruno novels, inspiring the "Domaine" in 'Dark Vineyard' and the scene of the summit in 'The Crowded Grave.' The associated vineyard produces a good Merlot that I walked over and bought for an incredibly low price.
While I expected all sorts of echoes of its Maqui past, I was disappointed - - the woman who managed the place was rarely there. When she was, she always seemed in a rush to leave and spoke in such rapid-fire French that I could barely understand ,so no way to find out anything about the house. Fortunately, the other guest tracked her down when I first arrived so she could drive over and give me a key to my room perched atop an extremely steep, winding set of stairs (55 steps from my car in the courtyard to my room - - I counted once.
My room was quite large with a couch, several chairs and a very fancy, large bed, but it wasn't terribly comfortable and I could only see the gorgeous views by standing to look out the chest-high dormer windows. The bed was hard as a rock and the bottom sheet was pulled up around the hard roll (the classic French pillow tha - - all the other hotels I stayed in had a more familiar variety). That might have ok if the sheet had been extra long, but it wasn't, so the bottom 8" or so of the mattress was exposed at the foot of the bed. For some reason, it really bothered me to put MY feet in the same place on the same mattress where hundreds of previous guests had also put THEIR feet. I realize it is absolutely no different than walking barefoot across any surface in a public place (e.g, the scanners in any airport), but I really didn't like that OR the useless "pillow" (imagine a large tootsie roll with a sheet draped around it). So... atmospheric and interesting but my least favorite hotel of the trip.
By the way, the other rather odd note (given that I'd stayed there because of the Resistance/Malraux connection) was that ALL of the other guests in the chateau were German! They were members of group that have vacationed together for years. They were nice, but hearing nothing but German during most of my stay was odd given the history of the place..
This review is the subjective opinion of a TravelPod member and not of TravelPod.com.
TripAdvisor Reviews Domaine de la Vitrolle Limeuil
Travel Blogs from Limeuil
This is the closest “large” town to my hotel. With a population of ~3000 people, it is located in a bend of the Vezere River surrounded by wooded hills. The town was completely rebuilt around the churches of St Marcel and St Suplice in the mid-19th century so looks a little different than the “most beautiful” villages” …
Another of the “most beautiful villages of France” that I visited on this trip, Limeuil is located at the intersection of the Vezere and Dordogne Rivers. Inhabited since prehistoric times, the current village is a well-preserved medieval town with fortified gateways and a ruined castle. The houses built of golden stones are linked tiny …
Wow, what a lot has happened in those 36 years. I can't say any more 'it seems like yesterday'! But it doesn't seem that long either. Today the weather is very similar to then, sunny and dry (although a lot warmer here) but the autumn leaves falling all around reminds us of the church grounds. Looking back we have been so fortunate in our married lives, yes we've had the odd hiccup like most, but we have 3 wonderful children, 2 with delightful partners & 2 very ...
... needed. Time to get back for a coffee and to read a book in the sun shine and then lunch, we bought some interesting soft blue. However. having unwrapped it the smell was just like a fish you might have thrown into a hot dustbin 2 days before, so straight into the site bin. (We did try it though and it was as bad as it smelt) our first inedible cheese, so not too bad really. We spent the afternoon taking a leafy lane tour of old Gourdon, we went under the rail line though ...
Armed with map and leaflet we set off for our walk round the old town. First stop was to stand outside the TIC to link up to the internet to check emails and download the blog. We then carried on walking up the little road to what we thought was the top St Pierre Church, but to one side were some steps and a path to go higher, to the Table d'orientation. This was part of the old ...