Cavalier Beirut

... yes, Beirut!) late last night and I needed to find my way into town. Nonexistent public transportation options made me face the music and look for a cab. Being ripped off by a taxi driver was the last thing I needed at 11pm. Of course all the nonlegit taxi drivers hit everyone up as soon as they come through the doors from baggage claim into the terminal. I had already done my research and knew that a taxi should cost no more than $8-$12 and to pick up a ...

... guardrail. Posses of over-testosteroned men slunk in their plastic chairs smoking shisha while jamming to the bumping bass of their fancy cars. Old men cast long fishing lines over the cliff while daredevil teenagers cast themselves over the rail, diving into the water meters below. And then above the din rang a wholly familiar sound, one that I had not heard since my childhood, but one that still had the same uplifting effect. It was an ice cream truck.


Everyday ...

... his dues he goes to the door and has a good old arguement then tell em to **** off cos hes obviously shiittin it. He quickly jumped in his seat and tried to speed off wi baldy hangin on for dear life the poor swine. Enraged, baldy swings his weapon and clumps it down on vinnys shoulder who then sees red again and has a fight with his mrs to get his big stick. Im sat there about 2 feet away from the action trying to supress a smirk, i didnt feel intimadated at all, it was truly ...

... was the former president of Pakistan - (Musharaf). I think the others were Lebanese celebrities. We then went to a fortress called Chateau Beaufort. Again, I wasn't that excited about the sight. The day did start to get interesting once we arrived in a town called Fateem. This town bordered Israel. Kimo and I went to some view point and could see Israeli town in the short distance. Of course there was a fence wrapped with barbd wire that separated the two ...

... then hung up the phone. He waved at me to get my backpack from the luggage rack and said "See outside". I ran and snared my backpack from the carousel and walked up to the customs area, where they were baggage screening. I got another text from Rawda saying the army guy would help me get to a certain point and Rawda and her family would meet me there to pick me up. There was another guy doing passport checks, but I seemed to slip through with a couple that had just come in ...

... used to buy visa stamps from some old guy in the back of a tiny grocery store before finally returning to the original building. (deep breath) The important thing is that five Syrian government officials remained gainfully employed. From Lattakia we took the train to Aleppo, passing through some pretty amazing scenery. We spent a couple days in Aleppo exploring the souqs (once again) and famous Christian quarter, followed by yet another citadel/castle. We've now seen quite a few ...

... the confusion, it is the politics of this country and its capital that keeps me fascinated. They shape its very existence and they threaten to tear it apart (again), but from my selfish perspective, it's a lot more interesting than the stifled political scene of the Syrian dictatorship. And of course, for all its problems, Beirut and its people maintain a fun-loving persona that creates a true party atmosphere, and I hope and trust this fun-loving spirit will outlive any intermittent war.

Got another early start this day by meeting Maher at the same place at before. Didn't get knefeh though :( I went in and bought Easter chocolates for small group and work people. They're so pretty, I hope they hold up on the trip home. We went up to Elissar (I should be writing these names down I wish I could tell you the names of more of the foods, too. The school is in Rabihe and NEST is in Ras Beirut, or West Beirut.) Breakfast was ...

... the shell damage is so bad, some have given up the fight and overgrown bomb craters dot the road. Next to a bombed out building, balconies dangling, pillars shot down to the reinforcing iron, weeds poking out from shattered balustrades, is a glossy, chrome and glass international bank headquarters; shiny billboards exhorting you to buy a Peugeot or exfoliate with L'Oreal sit in front of burned out homes; Europcar's welcoming rental office is the only sign of ...

... out for a mere $500USD/hour, for those who wish to show even more skin. Saturday was spent at the beach. Not just the beach, "the" beach. There are many private beaches lining the coast of Lebanon to the north and south of Beirut. Most people go to private beach clubs because they are cleaner and have more amenities than the public beaches - most public beaches are littered with garbage, or are nothing more than an outcropping of rocks. We chose to go to Eddesands ...