Caesars Park Hotel Beirut

Beirut has often been nicknamed the Paris of the Middle East and it is fair to say that the cafe culture and chic dress sense does contain some similarities. However, what Paris or frankly no other city can prepare you for are the drivers. Between us we have visited most of the richest cities on earth yet never have we seen so many luxury cars. The vehicle of choice is clearly the super-charged 4x4, so we have a suggestion ...

... guardrail. Posses of over-testosteroned men slunk in their plastic chairs smoking shisha while jamming to the bumping bass of their fancy cars. Old men cast long fishing lines over the cliff while daredevil teenagers cast themselves over the rail, diving into the water meters below. And then above the din rang a wholly familiar sound, one that I had not heard since my childhood, but one that still had the same uplifting effect. It was an ice cream truck.


Everyday ...

... his dues he goes to the door and has a good old arguement then tell em to **** off cos hes obviously shiittin it. He quickly jumped in his seat and tried to speed off wi baldy hangin on for dear life the poor swine. Enraged, baldy swings his weapon and clumps it down on vinnys shoulder who then sees red again and has a fight with his mrs to get his big stick. Im sat there about 2 feet away from the action trying to supress a smirk, i didnt feel intimadated at all, it was truly ...

... who was wearing only boxer shorts and an undershirt (aka wife beater). I didn't blame him as it was so hot in his office. The first place we went to was a small city called Saida. It was nothing special. Kimo and I went to visit some castle and then walked around the main souq. The only thing worth mentioning was that when we stopped at a tiny bakery the owner was very proud to show us photos of famous people eating at his place. The only person I ...

... the airport to the first checkpoint, change to a second taxi, get the the second checkpoint and so on. Rawda's uncle suggested that this might be a little difficult since 1. I didn't know where I was going and 2 - I didn't speak any Arabic! The checkpoint guy then suggested that a taxi coming OUT of Beirut probably wouldn't have too many problems, so the plan was set. So I'm now safely at Rawda's parent's place. With that kind of dramatic entry to Lebanon, I'm sure it'll be an interesting trip!

... have been thrilled to be sold some half-edible bread and get the chance to bare my hairy legs in a chair in the parking lot. I think Sheena said it best, describing it as a vacation phenomenon called "Pleasure Greed". Defined as: Expecting a constant state of joy and responding with outrage to even the slightest interruption. Day Two: Beirut. The self-proclaimed Europe of the Middle East. It's certainly more modern and "Western" then anywhere else we've been lately (except possibly ...

... thankfully straight-forward. We had worried that, with only one border-crossing left open after the recent fighting in Lebanon, we might get held up in long queues. However, having gotten across to the Lebanese side with minimal fuss, I sat back in my ample seat (the Damascus-Beirut taxis are giant American cars from the 60s, 70s and 80s), and savoured my new surroundings. It was a fascinating drive from the border to Beirut. In a purely geographic sense, the route ...

... contest AND the paper chain contest and had a decent discussion, too. (That part was in English.) Pretty cool kids and I really enjoyed talking with one of the girls who is a very talented artist and budding musician. Before everyone arrived, Ed and I walked down the road and I found a dollar store to buy my coffee cup set. Lord knows what I'll do with it, but I have it. Maher drove us back to NEST and we all had to say goodbye. What a great guy!

2 hours on the plane (not flying) to evict the drunk and his luggage from the flight to Beirut; 2 immigration officials scamming the visa system ("No, no, just tuck the USD 20.00 inside your passport"); 2 taxi drivers haggling over the fare because they "have many problems" which can ...

... Walking through the square the other night it was hard to belive that it was the same place I watched on CNN so many times only a few months ago. Strolling through the streets of downtown Beirut, you can look up at any number of the highrises and apartment buildings and the pock-marked concrete walls tell you the story of a country that has endured so much conflict. The bullet holes serving as a reminder for everyone that the peace being enjoyed now was hard-fought for.