Avari Lahore

... full of military bluster, strutting, saluteing and stomping of feet. It is done with precision and sometime with menacing looks.

Things began to conspire against our timely arrival even before we left.
1. The fast food chinese place was slow, lunh held us up.
2. at 4:45, we ran past driver into hotel to get the bags, the magnetic key failed to open our door- reprogramming at the front desk required.
3. Wedrove like madmen very dangerous over ...

... a couple of small packets with candy mints in them. I took them so as not to insult him and thanked him profusely. 

From the mosque I made my way across the central courtyard over to the Lahore Fort. The centuries old fort has been the centerpiece of Lahore since its creation. Though the structure itself is noteworthy, I think it's one of those places where the history is much more impressive than the building on its own. It was built about 450 years ago by Emperor ...

... and as we moved around the city, everyone thought he was a tourist too - we had fun with some of the conversations. I was fortunate that through K in Gilgit, we also had a contact at the art college in Lahore. We met up with a sculpture student there who showed us around the college and the halls of residence (hostel), giving me a chance to speak to the students and see their work. During this time we also met up with my ...

... decorated with mughlai paintings, taking you back to the royal mughlai kitchens, famous for the most exotic and finest food for royal families' (from their website). Adnan convinced me to try this great dessert, shahi tukra -- rich bread pudding with dry fruits, flavored with cardamom. The feeling that I'm in some parallel universe is still very strong.

... s tomb is adorned with all the names of Allah. They are set in formal English-style gardens that were full of birds - especially Kites which were a feature all across the city. Chunna Mandi - an old mansion now a girl's college called Asif Jah. With the old architecture and green courtyard it looked a peaceful place to study in the midst of the bustling city. Golden Mosque The Fort - a large area with gardens and the remains of many structures inside ...

... latest visitor to our dear friend, the toilet hole. On a brighter note, the people here in Pakistan are just as warm and friendly as those that we fell in love with in Turkey and Iran. We stayed with the kind-hearted Zakir and his family in the beautiful village of Hanna Urak (just outside of Quetta) for several days and they were wonderful hosts and very patient with our ongoing ill health. We enjoyed a fishing tip and a spectacular sunset mountain hike during our time in ...

... With the strap around his neck he begins to turn slowly counterclockwise as he beats on the top and bottom, then faster he spins as the beat matches his footsteps until he is spinning so fast, the banging faster, and faster -- the centrifugal force sways the drum horizontal in mid-air and he continues beating. At the climax he has literally worked his audience, who aren't too stoned to turn around, in a semi-hypnotic frenzy -- it stops abruptly --shoulders relax ...

... up on?" "Uh, det, uh, veddy, veddy old market place." "Well, isn't that strange -- because it says 'Lahore Museum' right there, by God!" Later while visiting a Jahangir's Tomb he pointed out, "Look at dis, all real hand-made painting, veddy old --original." Rolling my eyes as I passed him, "Honey, that's chalk -- Jesus Christ Almighty." My patience was wearing thin and once we arrived at the celebrated Lahore Fort I accepted a guide for around 2 dollars. My ...

... we pass hulking Mughal architecture -- spiraling confections from the builders of the Taj. The famous Gymkhana Club comes into view and across the way faded remnants of the British Raj -- it's now easy to see why Rudyard Kipling was so enchanted by Lahore that he chose to live here for several years.

It's chaotic and charming, and edgy for certain -- it's exactly the recipe that I need at present. And it may be just about as spicy as I can handle. Or is it?

Christina