Albergo del Sedile Matera

... inside the two or three room caves that served as their homes. The sanitary conditions were abysmal, and the infant mortality rate exceeded 50%.

Then, in the late 1950s, the government of Italy got involved and began to move (sometimes by force) all residents out of the Sassi and into new government apartments built in a “new” section of town. By 1963, the Sassi was deserted and had become a true ghost town. Then, in the 1980s, the government ...

... well preserved, and the Sassi ('stones') districts are now undergoing stylish renovations and are now host to bars, restaurants, and chic boutique hotels.

Our hotel, the 5* Palazzo Gattini, was stunning, and combined old world luxury with every modern comfort. The view from the terrace and the balconies to the ancient caves was magical and entrancing. Wandering through the Sassi ...

This is where Pietro, an old Italian guy, jumped into Bruce and navigated us to the trulli. He saved us from a traffic jam in the narrow streets of Puglia.

Pete was also called Pietro while in Italy. :-)

Trullo comes from the Greek word, "tholos" – meaning “dome”. See the pictures of the wee houses.

We found the Belvedere pub here too - also the name of our local in Aus – meaning “beautiful view”. It was beautiful.

... we get to customs where there's complete disorder. Then we see the road ways. I've never seen so much disorder in my life.

Last nights rest on the boat was awesome. We wanted to get some sort of cabin, but all were full and we were forced to be deck passengers. There were a lot of us and most everyone crowded into a lounge and attempted to make beds out of dining booths. Chrissy and I were the only ones to set up our sleep mats ...

... and look over at the village from the other side of the canyon. So we took all sorts of little tracks until we found the right one in the dying light - and what an awesome sight it was in the morning, coffee in hand sitting on a rock at the edge of the canyon, watching the mist clear (check out the pics). For any movie buffs, we happened to be sitting on the spot in Mel´s movie where Christ was crucified - so not only ...

... who is the sister of my grandfather). Gianluca's mother prepared delicious meals both days we visited and I ate so much I could hardly walk. Gianluca's grandmother looks exactly like my grandfather and she has a fantastic sense of humour. It was quite overwhelming to meet one of my grandfather's siblings and family in Italy and speak in Italian with them! Anyway, it was a great weekend, and I hope to go back there again before I leave! The ...

I decided to remain in Matera for an extra day. The old city, boasting a heritage of nearly 10,000 years is clearly majestic in its effect on the first time visitor. Not too touristy (yet), the city gives out the real feeling of what living in a small, secluded, cliff hanging cave town would be like. One can easily imagine this by looking up towards the still vacant stone houses and caves or looking down at the creak and the rocky hills surrounding it ...

... where the two pharmacists, once again, proved to be extremely kind and helpful. Armed with a dictionary and query Italian, I tried to remember the words for "rash" and "crouch". In the end I settled for a few jesters and finger pointings. "where? where? - oh, down there.. OK..", the pharmacist finally said, heading towards the baby ointments section. The whole process took 5 long minutes; the line behind me grew, yet the ...

Short ride yet breathtaking. Via Appia is magnificent! An ancient roman road which is situated comfortably on the mountains above the highway is also amerced in natural forest and meadows, dotted here and there by small town houses, grazing sheep, pigs or hens. There is barely any traffic on the road - definite a bikers heaven. The mountain peaks reach a hight of more than 1000 m.

... the family, and upon saying I am full and can't eat any more am ordered to drink extra servings of Padre Peppè, a local digestive liqueur made from walnuts. I am happy to do what I'm told, then have a siesta, and in the evening we're off to the Sassi for a wine bar crawl - I shouldn't be telling you all this as you will all think I'm louche (work that one out for yourselves), but you might as well know what I'm really like, warts and all.
One of the bars we go to is the ...