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> surfing sumatra, surf indonesia's final frontier - sumatra
post May 28 2008, 09:18 AM
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Hi ladies and gents,

just got back from indonesia recently. As always had an amazing time. Friendly people, world class surf - and fantstic weather.

The one bad thing though is the ever increasing influx of surfers! Now as a surfer Im not one to begrudge anyone who takes to the sport! Its so much fun! Its going to happen! But because there's only finite beaches and reef breaks in the world - and an ever increasing amount of surfers - there becomes a rarity in finding those magic moments where it's just you and few friends in the lineup.

It'd been a while since I'd been to indonesia - about 5 years, and previous to that - I'd spent 3 seperate trips travelling throughout indonesia - to many islands including Bali, Nusa Lemboggan, Lombok, Sumbawa, Sumba and also Java. Each time was an adventure and each offered empty waves and good times...

However, on return to Bali I felt myself becoming frustated, almost instantly - with the frustration of surfing crowded waves - even when heading in for a super early surf.

So action was needed! After much debate about various desinations - we (3 of us) decided to head to Sumatra. Our desination was Bengkulu - an earthquake prone city situated on the west coast of the island. On landing, the surf was small and after discovering a few potential waves we decided to head for a new spot further south.

After a few days of long and bumpy travel we ended up at a camp that we'd been tipped of about from a friend. Wow. thats all I'll say. Wow....

Within seconds of pulling up at the camp, getting out the van and saying hi to the owner - we were staring at long left hander, peeling endlessly down the point. And to our amazement, just 3 guys out. It was epic....!

3 weeks followed of what we called groundhog day. Literally the same every day and what a day it was. A few people came and went - but it was never crowded there. There was the odd onshore day, but only a few. The swell got bigger, then as it began dying, would again start to pick up - as if we'd asked it to. It really was the perfect surf trip. Rewarding, fulfilling - amazing...

Im going to perhaps stab myself in my own back by reveiling the camps name. So please - dont go telling everyone - just ya mates - those who'd repect it. The site is reflective of the camp - so check it out http://www.surfcampsumatra.com . People already know about it - its not like its unknown. It does get relatively busy in the main season (July) - but as a whole - its somewhere were you really can go and have a surf - with just you and a few mates - and get one of those magic days that are really what its all about...


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post May 28 2008, 09:49 AM
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Rolling Stone

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Nice story! Glad you had such a great time... Are you planning on going back?

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