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To get to the DMZ you must go with an organized tour. Most (all?) of them depart from Seoul. I'm not sure how long the bus ride is but from what I've read the tour bus generally leaves around 7:30 or 8:00 am and gets back around 3:00 or 3:30 pm, how much of that is driving versus time at the DMZ I don't know. Next weekend I'm planning on going up to Seoul to make the arrangements to go on the USO tour which I've heard is one of the best there is and also one of the most inexpensive. I'll update you on what you need to do/how long it takes once I find out.
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