Welcome to the TravelPod forums

[fourloves]

I'm currently in Chiang Mai, getting ready for some trekking, but it seems all-too-common here. With such an influx of travllers doing the same thing, I want my footprint to go the right direction in helping, not exploiting hill tribes, elephants, the environment, et cetera. If this means I have to skip trekking altogether, so be it. Whilst reading some of Paul's entries, I came across a reccommendation to trek with the Mirror Art Foundation out of Chiang Rai. Another group, the Akha Heritage Foundation is pretty antagonistic and had written that MAF is condescending towards the Akha people:

"...noting comments from staff in the early years tended to illustrate this. Both Thai and western staff seemed to have the erroneous and depressing attitude that Akha culture was 1. Inferior to Thai culture. 2. That all Akha people were just dying to be Thai. 3. That the Akha are incompetent 4. What is "human rights"? In other words there is not much mention of the human rights situation that is creating extreme problems for the Akha in the area. Even the killings of Akha and other tribe people near to the Mirror Art Group are not protested by the Thais, and if so, certainly not sufficiently, which would give more an impression of patronizing relationship."

On another note, they seem to be criticizing the goverment's general treatment of the whole of Thailand:


"... Oliver Jufer, a Swiss man, was arrested and charged with insulting the King of Thailand for painting over pictures of the King. Charged with "Lese Majeste", he is now waiting sentencing.
The case is a classic reminder that the King and Queen of Thailand are above the law, above criticism, and do not give the people of Thailand the freedom to express what they really think or demand the democracy they deserve. Most of Thailand is subservient to who ever is pushing them around at the time. Thaksin calling for the killing of anyone put on a black list, the Army taking over the country, a history of many bloody coups and the murder or disappearance of large numbers of protesters or students. All during the King's rule.

Born in the United States, the King of Thailand would not allow his own people the freedoms he would enjoy in a western democracy. He generally remains silent during brutal oppression imposed by police or army. Both organizations operate without transparency and are particularly brutal to the hill tribe peoples. Add to this that the Queen's Royal Projects are directly involved in confiscating Akha lands, a case now at the UN for two years.

In Thailand there becomes a great air of impunity for the violation of the rights of the people.

As historic hatred of Monarchy's grow, the least of a Royal's worries will be getting the likeness of one's head painted."

If you're still reading at this point, my question(s) are, bearing in mind that I have been in Thailand for only a month, and am not even close to grasping the culture:
1. Is the AHF group just sort of spinster group, or are they making valid points regarding MAF?
2. Who/how/where should one trek with, and should one avoid going to see hill tribe peoples? Is this exploitive and damaging, or are there legitimate ways of interacting on a genuine level?
3. Is the ciritcism of the monarchy by AHF really overboard and biased, or are they raising valid points that are relevant and need addressing?

Any help would be much appreciated - I wish I had more time to research, stay, integrate, understand, but I'm kind of just stumbling through this like everyone else on a quick schedule...

Cheers, MacK

[wakingdream]

Hi Mack,
I will bet Paul will have great information for you.

2. Who/how/where should one trek with, and should one avoid going to see hill tribe peoples? Is this exploitive and damaging, or are there legitimate ways of interacting on a genuine level?

I remember being in Northern Thailand my first year there. I wanted to do a trek but had the same thoughts and concerns as you do now on the whole thing. I didn't have the time back then to do the proper research so I never went on a trek. I was too consumed with the possibilty of choosing the wrong trekking company and being very unhappy with the experience. I had heard some pretty bad stories.

Years later on another trip to SEA we met a Canadian fellow in Luang Prabang who was married to a Khmu women, both really beautiful people thru & thru. He ran treks to certain places in the area with an option to have a wander through a Khmu village. I've always felt in some way that no matter how culturally sensitive the visit is, I would still feel odd and perhaps slightly fear that in some ways maybe it is an insensitive thing to do. We had a wonderful trek. We did go to the small Khmu village and at first the people seemed extremely wary of us. We were the only ones there with our guide and I felt at first that we had a made a mistake.

We talked with the head of the village for some time. We had an amazing conversation and slowly the rest of the tribe came closer and closer until they were close enough that I started interacting with some of the women and children. Long story short, it turned out to be one of the best experiences I have had and after some time, the tribe seemed genuinely happy to have us there. It meant so much to us for them to share a small bit of their lives with us. They asked alot fo questions about us and we of them. It was is still quite vivid in my mind.

They offered us Lao whiskey and showed us around their village. They even slaughtered a pig and shared it with us that evening! We ditched the rest of the trek and stayed on with them. It seemed the right thing to do. It was a wonderful exchange. Once a year I send a package of clothing to our CDN friend and his wife takes it back to that same village and distributes it (while talking to the head of the village, he expressed concern over the children not having enough clothing.) It's a small thing, but I believe it makes a big difference.

I think it depends on who takes you and to where and I believe it can be difficult to find the right organisation that upholds a sensitivity to the culture itself. It is awful to be taken to a place where you feel you should not be there, and the people are put on a type of display. I don't know of a more uncomfortable and awkward feeling.

Okay sorry, I've rambled on enough and meanwhile not answered any of your questions!

Have a fun time and I hope you find the right trek for you.