I agree, seeing the Gorillas really is something special. That silverback got pretty close!
It's easier to get a permit for Rwanda than Uganda (and easier still in DR Congo!). Rwanda was a great place to see them. It's a really simple process.....
1) Phone up the ORTPN office in Kigali and book a spot
2) Arrive in Kigali a few days beforehand and pay. NOTE: No international ATMs in Rwanda, no-one accepts visa. SO, take Mastercard credit cards and/or cash. You'll be able to exchange traveller's checks, but you'll be ripped off as you can only receive francs at the 'official' rate.
3) Get yourself to Ruhengeri the day before your Gorilla trip (2 hours from Kigali).
4) Find some friends if you already don't have any.
5) Find a driver and car. The Ruhengeri cartel dictates that this will cost 50 US Dollars for the car (hence you need friends), you'll not be able to negotiate. The ORTPN office in Ruhengeri can give you the phone number of a driver.
6) Get picked up at 6am by your driver who'll take you to the head quarters out of town, after some faffing around you're off!
I went to see the SUSA group, which was brilliant, a nice longish walk as well which was just a bonus for me.
If you look at the
Rwanda Tourism website then you'll find ORTPN's phone number and address.....
Office Rwandaise du Tourisme et des Parcs Nationaux (ORTPN)
The Rwanda Tourism Board
Boulevard de la Révolution n° 1
PO Box 905
Kigali, Rwanda
Tel (250) 576514 or 573396
Fax (250) 576515
Email: reservation@rwandatourism.com
Whatever you decide, have a blast!