Uzbekistan
Travel Blogs from Uzbekistan
Uzbek Story: It's Like That, Life
... few years corruption has become much worse," he lamented. But despite the mafia, corruption, and the militsia, "the people in Uzbekistan are beautiful," he added. "You understand me what I am saying, Lloyd." He told me about himself, his life in ...
The Silk Road: Unpeeling the Layers of History
The settlement history of Samarkand is thick, layers thick. Over the years, earthen accretion, erosion, and sieges have covered and destroyed preceeding layers. But each layer tells a story that is a piece of the Silk Road legend called ...
Al-Jazeera on Satellite TV
For four nights I stayed at the Ali Tour Bed and Breakfast. After the long night drive from Fergana, I was greeted to offers of "beer and vodka," prostitutes, and a late night breakfast, not so odd if you are immersed in Central Asian culture for a ...
Journey to Baku
... this financially-challenging leg. P.S. What happened with the banks is that they saw activity from both Germany and Uzbekistan and froze my account. Somehow the server from Karakalpakstan was registering as German. Either way, everything was ...
The Silk Road: Pomegranate
... a threat to the secular dictator, Karimov, so are obviously repressed. But one site was the most important for Muslims in Uzbekistan, the Bakha-ud-din Naqshband Mausoleum, where the 14th century founder of the Naqshband Sufi order lies under a humble ...
The Lonesome Smoking Santa
Despite what you might think after the recent posts, Tashkent offerred more than just visas and militsia and apparatchik. As the largest city in Central Asia, Tashkent was a winter playground of Metro stations, historical monuments, and museums. ...
Visa Hell
... militsia than you can shake a stick at (I don't recommend doing this though). So I needed another option... Option Five: Cross Uzbekistan, travel to Kazakhstan to the edge of the Caspian at Aktau, then fly across the Caspian Sea to Baku, where you ...
Q and A
Q and A from various recent emails (Since I have a depressing amount of homework tonight, so real entries, emails and trips to the post office to mail that first batch of letters must wait for another day. FYI, I am told that letters take about 2 weeks ...
Weekend Adventures
I must apologize for taking a week to post these pictures. Allow me to add Tashkent Traveler's Health Tip #7 to my previous list: Do not climb to the top of a leaning minaret and then get probable food poisoning while still recovering from amoebic ...
Homesick (but healthier) in Tashkent
... a few weeks ago. Bahodir: Akbar's best friend and my babysitter; essentially a third son in the family and Uzbekistan's Enrique Iglesias. NEIGHBORS: Sveta (pronounced Svyeta): My retired Russian next door neighbor; lives with her dog, Daisy ...
Rain and frustration in Central Asia
First of all, IT'S RAINING! YAY! After a few cool days (following my "Autumn Arrives in Tashkent" announcement, it has been pretty warm again overall. But it has been aining for the past few days, and is pretty chilly now. Yay! As for the ...
Central Asia, Land of Broken Hearts
Central Asia, Land of Broken Hearts... doesn't that sound like a smashingly successful new tourism slogan? Yeah, I didn't think so. ;-) Anna, Karen and I had joked in Samarkand and Bukhara about how the only people who seem to get into this field in ...
Bits and pieces
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ A Girl's Guide to Being Instantly Recognizable as a Foreigner in Tashkent (With additional [and likely biased] commentary from acquaintances) 1. Be in a ...
Health Advice in Uzbekistan
... see whoever is available, but try to see Dr. Ellen. She rocks. She should be in the Lonely Planet Guide for Uzbekistan... right after the restaurant section ;-) #3: Get good medicine. My antibiotics kick ass. :) #4: Don't feel bad accepting ...
Arrival and Travails in Tashkent
... to me, since despite all of my pre-departure Russian lessons, I seemed to have forgotten everything as soon as I arrived in Uzbekistan. Dictionary in one hand, I struggled with the lock with the other, to no avail. Finally, I understood the word for ...
Autumn arrives in Tashkent!
The heat wave has finally broken! I could comfortably wear the long sleeves and slacks yesterday that comprise most of my wardrobe, and last night was actually chilly! This is a very welcome change from the searing 100-degree-with-blinding-sun weather ...
More Q and A, and some quick updates
Q: Can I call you? Can you call me? Can you get phonecards? A: Good questions. I don't know, but I'm working on it. Ok, well, hypothetically yes, I do have a phone, but it's not very cooperative. First of all, the connection is bad, so it's really ...
As the Mahalla Turns...
... it, but I've forgotten a lot of it. Besides, I like Uzbek better. I: But I don't understand. You can only speak Uzbek in Uzbekistan. You can speak Russian in many countries. M: I know, but don't worry, I'm sure I'll find a use for it. ;-) I ...
Karakalpakstan: A Hidden Gem of a Land
... take long to also realize that people here consider themselves a separate country. Earlier I asked a man if we were in Uzbekistan: "No nyet, Karakalpakstan." For thousands of years they have been separate, even if for much of the time, nearby ...
Museum of Applied Arts
Dilfuza and I went to the Museum of Applied Arts today. At first, I was reluctant to go because I've pretty much had my fill of museums and was really tired, but I was really glad we went. There were lots of beautiful exhibits, and I was able to take ...
The Silk Road: Ichon Qala, Frozen in Time...Almost
Sharing a car with Yuki, Motoko, and another Japanese traveler, I headed west across the white Kyzylkum desert, a misnomer in the winter because it translates as "red sands." Seeing no red sands for hours, but wide expanses of flat, sparse ...
Samarkand
... up that I remembered that (a) I was still bedridden only 3 or 4 days before, (b) I have a bad knee, (c) I'm a little claustrophobic, (d) Uzbekistan has a history rich in occurences of people being thrown from the tops of minarets, and (e) our friendly ...
A Historic Harem And A Quirky Minaret.
... we ventured out into the gorgeous compact and well preserved central heart of Khiva. It has become our favourite city in Uzbekistan. Khiva is a labyrinth of mosques, palaces, tombs, narrow alley ways and traditional houses, within ancient 10 metre high ...
Last Days In Uzbekistan.
... in Tashkent speak Russian, as she does, and quite often when speaking the Uzbek language, her accent cannot be understood. Uzbekistan was hidden behind the iron curtain and under the iron rule of USSR for so long, that Russian is ...
At Last ! - Samarkand - On The Silk Road.
... for free. Our visa is definitely at the airport ready for us" etc. etc. All makes sense to us, but not Air Uzbekistan supervisors! As the time got closer and closer to departure we got more frantic. I went to the Air Baltic check ...
Bukhara
... , and you can see the difference in how Bukharans interact with foreigners as a recently hot destination and some other parts of Uzbekistan. Everyone speaks a little English, and isn't afraid to use it. I think they're used to mostly obnoxious tourists, ...
Happy Thanksgiving!
... Mavjuda is going to have an invasion of American girls! (This is incidentally the first year there has been a group of girls in Uzbekistan-- usually there's only one at a time, if any... now there's 5!) My only other big news is that I'm coming home ...
Assalom Alaykum! Yakhshi Misiz?
Wow, so much happens everyday that is probably trivial but seems important to me, that it seems like there's too much to update! I'll do my best, though. The most important thing is definitely that I finally started classes yesterday. My teacher, ...
SNOW!!!
It snowed last night! Not very much, just a dusting, but it's still cool. It usually doesn't snow here until January... or maybe it just doesn't snow very much until January... I don't remember. Anyway, it's very pretty from a distance... just don't ...

