11th September 2008 Just outside Aracena (Camping Aracena Sierra) Lovely and warm Yesterday was a bit of a nightmare day. We left Serpa later than we anticipated because we had been foolish enough not to check the time the reception opened. 0900, not 07/0800 like most campsites we have come across in the past several weeks. We knew the day would...

This morning we realised why the ladies in the auberge couldn't cook last night - because they spent about four hours from 6am slicing jamon, oiling bread, and making ham sandwiches for everyone's breakfast. We hung around the kitchen for long enough to become such a nuisance that they invited us in, and we tried some delicious black-footed pig ...